All organically-produced endomycorrhizal fungi (AMF) are currently cultured in a granular format. The only invitro-produced mycorrhizae are lab cultured in petri-dishes utilizing genetically modified carrot roots (no carrot attached). Since there are no fruiting bodies (carrots) all the carbohydrates exuded by the root stock go into fueling the mycorrhizae. You gain the advantage of high-spore counts, but loose the "conditioning" the spores gain from being grown in their natural environment. These GMO mycorrhizal species are produced in several locations world-wide, the most notable being India. Invitro spores look identical under microscopy (like clones) and contain no fatty cells (the fuel source which allows mycorrhizae to sporulate). The resulting spores have a very low rate of success and often do not survive under real world conditions. It is also of great importance that a mycorrhizal inoculum contains a vast amount of inner-species diversity. It was once thought that diversity between multiple species was a key factor in gaining a successful colonization, but recent studies have shown it is more important to have diversity within a single species of mycorrhizae. This is due to the fact that mycorrhizae like all life, goes through stages of development. It is important that you have all different maturities of the same species in order to ensure that the spores will be able to correctly associate and reproduce. For more info on the importance of diversity within a single mycorrhizal species: Mycorrhizal Symbiosis, Third Edition Sally E. Smith, David J. Read Ecto-mycorrhizae are not produced, but rather harvested in forests across the US and abroad. They appear like "puff balls" on the forest floor, usually around old-growth trees. The cost of producing ectomycorrhizae is much greater than the cost of harvesting it. Ectomycorrhizae are readily available and if you live within 10 miles of a forest, it will surely be present in your yard as it is easily dispersed through the air. If you are growing conifers, oaks, hardwood trees, then you want to use ectomycorrhizae. If you are adding mycorrhizae to your home garden (fruits, veggies, flowers, etc) then you want to use endomycorrhizae. Note � ericoid and orchids require their own unique form of mycorrhizae. Also, nut and fruiting trees respond to both endo and ectomycorrhizal species. The most effective inoculums currently produced are delivered in their pure form without fertilizer, humates, kelp, and specifically trichoderma (which consume mycorrhizae as a food source when packaged together and left on a retail shelf). Many of these ingredients have their own beneficial effect on plant growth and can mask the potency of the product being used. For incontrovertible results, use a mycorrhizal inoculum which states it is pure, fresh, and alive such as those used by many of the top competitive vegetable growers. Here is a link that might be useful: Google-found source of pure mycorrhizae

(Apologies for the length of this and the fact it's off-topic) Bahia, Here's what the Annie's sign says: "Well, weve figured out how to propagate it, but its REALLY IFFY, takes a REALLY LONG TIME, & we only get a few!" For some reason I had assumed they meant propagation by cuttings--maybe not? But if seed packets are $3 with 10-20 seeds per packet (I don't know if that's the case) then than roughly 5% germination brings the seed price per seedling to closer to $5 maybe (neglecting those insignificant things such as labor...). Annie's says the plants were $50 last time they were offered, so perhaps 5% germination could make sense? The whole story behind germination actually sounds quite fascinating and has to do with ants. Here's a long description: http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Seed "Myrmecochory is the dispersal of seeds by ants. Foraging ants disperse seeds which have appendages called elaiosomes (e.g. bloodroot, trilliums, Acacias, and many species of Proteaceae). Elaiosomes are soft, fleshy structures that contain nutrients for animals that eat them. The ants carry such seeds back to their nest, where the elaiosomes are eaten. The remainder of the seed, which is hard and inedible to the ants, then germinates either within the nest or at a removal site where the seed has been discarded by the ants. This dispersal relationship is an example of mutualism, since the plants depend upon the ants to disperse seeds, while the ants depend upon the plants seeds for food. As a result, a drop in numbers of one partner can reduce success of the other. In South Africa, the Argentine ant (Linepithema humile) has invaded and displaced native species of ants. Unlike the native ant species, Argentine ants do not collect the seeds of Mimetes cucullatus or eat the elaiosomes. In areas where these ants have invaded, the numbers of Mimetes seedlings have dropped." From what I understand the removal of the elaiosome increases the germination rate, and it's not clear to me whether there's a way to mimic it. Plantzafrica mentions that suprisingly smoke treatment does nothing. Actually Silverhill did have a different Mimetes species, M. hirtus, a couple months ago. Unfortunately I saw it described by Plantzafrica as a marsh plant which didn't seem too practical. However they did seem to like it: http://www.plantzafrica.com/frames/plantsfram.htm "Sima Eliovson, author of Proteas for pleasure, referred to Mimetes hirtus as 'the most magnificent species of Mimetes, the most spectacular genus of the protea family'. Nevertheless, the future of the species is uncertain as it is also one of the most geographically restricted mimetes, growing only in boggy areas mainly at low altitudes. As a consequence of the latter, it is often out-competed for its preferred habitat by housing developments. Fortunately it is one of the less troublesome to grow in cultivation-an aspect that may aid its chance of survival as a species." They also add: "M. hirtus is a relatively short-lived member of the protea family. It grows rapidly as a result, and may start flowering after only two years of growth. Plants reach their peak by ten years of age and die shortly thereafter, at a maximum age of about fifteen years." Two years is pretty fast for a protea. Again, sorry for the length and for going off topic.

The 5th edition of 'Australian Native Plants' by Wrigley and Fagg, advises that Adenanthos sericeus is unreliable on the humid east coast. I tried to grow one a year or so ago, did all the right things, but it died in late summer. I should point out that although summer temperatures here are a little cooler than in Sydney, we do experience mists at this time of year and, the combination of warmth and moisture isn't good for those plants which prefer drier surroundings. I really should have known better.

I'm disappointed in the plant and myself too! Doris has not seemed to thrive or grow at all in 3 weeks. It has lost several leaves on the bottom, turn yellow and shrivel. When I pushed the skewer in today, the whole plant rocked like it's just the same root ball as when I repotted it, no additional root development. It was very wet when I brought it home. My plan is to repot in clay, keep in the shade several weeks. Questions: Clip off furry bloom so it can focus on roots? The rootball wasn't too big. Should I get a smaller pot? Unpot and let it rest that way in the shade 24 hours or so before repotting? i know plants can be killed with too much fussing, and I don't want to do that either. Failing leaf on the right. Brown tips in center are ok? Not mushy. PS I did just water it. 50/50 c&s, pumice