Last year, I thought enemy #1 was that white butterfly. This year, I have only seen a few - so far. Maybe, they are just waiting for me to get Over my euphoria - so early. However, so far, the only critter in any large number, has been aphis on my cabbage. Granted with all of the rain and cool weather, the cabbage crop has been phenomenal. The aphis were late in coming, so the cabbages had a chance to head up before their arrival in great numbers. I stripped a lot of the lower leaves from the cabbages, mostly with aphis infestation, and fed them to the chickens. They loved the extra protein, and perhaps my actions helped control the problem as well. I used to have a lot of problem with pill/sow bugs, but once I started leaving my sifted compost to air after screening and adding to my planting boxes, it seemed to control that problem. The birds feasted on the pill bugs while it was "resting" after being screened out of the compost pile. I may regret my comment about the cabbage worm in a few months, but I really think that one bird in my backyard has made a big difference. It is a phoebe. A few years back, I kept bees - actually they "kept" me, because our back yard was adopted by bees that were orphaned when the back country was devastated by wild fires. Anyway, phoebe appeared at about that time and liked catching bees on the fly. Now the bee population had dwindled, and phoebe is catching other "flyers" I see. So - yes, this organic philosphy seems to be working - sometimes takes awhile, but I see daylight. Bejay

Imalcoprid is a systemic insecticide that kilIs a wide range of insectics. It kills insects that eat the leaves or plant fluids, and pollinators that feed on the pollen and nectar. Hence, it has resulted in large losses of honey bees and other pollinators, even when applied to the ground due to the systemic nature. Here is what an extension bulletin on control says: Various insects and predatory mites feed on spider mites and provide a high level of natural control. One group of small, dark-colored lady beetles known as the "spider mite destroyers" (Stethorus species) are specialized predators of spider mites. Minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs (Geocoris species) and predatory thrips can be important natural enemies. One reason that spider mites become problems in yards and gardens is the use of insecticides that destroy their natural enemies. For example, carbaryl (Sevin) devastates most spider mite natural enemies and can greatly contribute to spider mite outbreaks. Malathion can aggravate some spider mite problems, despite being advertised frequently as effective for mite control. Soil applications of the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit, Marathon) have also contributed to some spider mite outbreaks. Spider Mites by W. S. Cranshaw and D. C. Sclar Control Strategies include: Option 1: Cultural Control - Syringing Since rainy weather seems to knock off spider mites, using a forceful jet of water from a hose (syringing) can perform the same task. A regular syringing can keep spider mites under control on most ornamental plants in the landscape. This technique also helps conserve natural predators. Option 2: Cultural Control - Quarantine and Inspection The twospotted spider mite is often introduced on infested bedding and house plants. When purchasing new plants, carefully inspect the lower leaf surface for any signs of mite activity. New house plants should be quarantined from other plants until you are sure that no mites are present. Option 3: Biological Control - Predators There are numerous insects (lacewings and lady beetles) that prey on spider mites. However, the most commonly sold predators are other types of mites. Predatory mites (usually Phytoseiulus spp., Amblyseius spp. or Metaseiulus spp.) can be purchased and released onto infested plants. Be sure to check listings to determine which species is appropriate. Some species are host specific and each predator works better under different weather conditions. If predators are used, do not apply pesticides that will kill them. Option 4: Chemical Control - "Soft Pesticides" Most spider mites can be controlled with insecticidal oils and soaps. The oils, both horticultural oil and dormant oil, can be used. Horticultural oils can be used on perennial and woody ornamentals during the summer at the 1 to 2 percent rate. Higher rates of horticultural oil (3 to 4 percent) or dormant oil are useful for killing mite eggs and dormant adults in the fall and spring. The insecticidal soaps are useful in the warm season. Remember that mites are very tiny and soaps and oils work by contact only. Therefore, thorough coverage of the plant is necessary for good control. Option 5: Chemical Control - Miticides Spider mites are usually not killed by regular insecticides, so be sure to check the pesticide label to see if "miticide" is present. Pesticides claiming "for mite suppression" are usually weak miticides and will not perform well. There are few products available to the homeowner. Dicofol (=Kelthane) is registered for over-the-counter use but is difficult to find. Acephate (=Orthene), dimethoate (=Cygon), chlorpyrifos (=Dursban), diazinon, disulfoton (=Di-syston), and malathion have over-the-counter product labels but are considered weak miticides. Avermectin (=Avid), bifenthrin (=Talstar), dienochlor (=Pentac), fenbutatin-oxide (=Vendex), fluvalinate (=Mavrik), oxamyl (=Vydate), oxydemeton-methyl (Metasystox-R), oxythioquinox (Morestan), and propargite (=Omite) are restricted use pesticides available only to licensed applicators. Ohio State Extension Bulletin HYG-2012-92

Hi Dawna, Thanks for the kind words. I just wanted to put together a little info sheet for everyone because the pests are so bad this year, and everyone has had a lot of questions. It sure has been raining a lot up your way. I hope all is well there. At least we aren't having to worry about wildfires or a hay shortage this year. Flooding, however, may be this summer's big issue. Dawn

Why I never tried the Bonide stuff is because it has Pyrithrin (SP) or similar poisons in it. U.C.Davis found that some mites actually like the stuff. It does something to make them breed like crazy. Plus it kills off the natural stuff that might eat them. No pest strips might be not so good to hang out around for a long time but I only hang it out when needed. I seal it in a vac pack bag between uses. I think it needs air to evaporate whatever is in it. Seems to work so far... I might try this stuff this season. Gotta watch soil PH and can burn plants in the sun... Gotta be careful... Liquid Sulfur link below. Here is a link that might be useful: liquid sulfur