TOA has both those trees in 5-6' feathered size. They ship very nice stock. Misterbaby. Here is a link that might be useful: TOA

Fruitnut... I hope. These were planted last summer as espaliers. The interesting thing was that on one tree in particular, the first branches (horizontal) leafed out while the main leader and the two that will make up the second tier are still in firmly in barely swollen bud stage. On the others the first level also leafed out much earlier than the others but at least there is some awakening. Mike.

Harvestman, my spray schedule is to be honest that I really don't have one. Well, I do, it's just that there has always been something that kept me from spraying early. This has not been by choice. This is why I see the great value in DR varieties for the backyard orchard whereas you do not. I'd bet anything my trees receive far, far greater care than the typical backyard tree and my fruit is proof of that. You might recall I never before sprayed myclo before probably mid July of this year. I also never sprayed dormant oil, but I bought some and will this year. I sprayed only sulfur and this is the first year ever for CAR and I'm certain the Goldrush introduction served as the petri-dish in my yard. This year: Chlorothalonil and triazicide before bud break. Triazicide and sulfur at petal fall (with some scattered petals remaining...bees no longer really active) triazicide/sulfur about every 10 days, sometimes less depending on rain and insect activity around late July I began Triazicide/ Carbaryl / myclobutanil about every 6 days (carbaryl introduced for JB control) beginning early August Triazicide/myclo/ sulfur about every 6 days depending on rain (most effective spray combo to date) Most recent spray Imidan (1 1/4 tbsp. per gallon) / myclo mixed heavy / sulfur (hasn't rained since) I did a one time spray to the Damson only of Bifenthrin/ Zeta - Cypermethrin for BMSB. This was the most effective one time spray I've ever did in my life. Tree was covered with them including babies. The spray totally destroyed them and they have never returned nor did they move to any other fruit. Gone like the wind. A single 24oz. spray. This is certainly an overly excessive spray regimen, but I have absolutely perfect apples, other than a very small touch of what I think is bitter pit on Honeycrisp (only on a few select apples), and the CAR on the Goldrush...no fruit damage whatsoever and only small foliar lesions, never with the horns on the leaf underside. I spray very thoroughly...leaves top and bottom, trunk branches...everything. I finish out the tank on the Goldrush with a light mist after the initial spray has dried to get more product on the foliage. I might introduce calcium sulfate next year, both foliar and ground applications to the apples.

OK, correction; the apples on the branch are NOT King David, but Lady Williams (that's what happens when the Belgian Fence makes tracing the branch to the tag difficult). The King David in the hand are indeed runts, but excellent-tasting runts. I picked the Lady Williams today, also very nice, very marketable, but nothing close to King David. KD is still very firm when ripe, but in a pleasant sort of way, very sweet, with a distinctly winey taste, hints of Welch's grape juice, but also very spicy, appley, sweet-tart, matching the color. KD doesn't keep nearly like Arkansas Black unfortunately, but Lady Williams is reported to keep well and improve in ordinary storage, a plus where there is no refrigeration.