Wood Ash in the Garden. By Rosie Lerner,Extension Consumer Horticulturist "The chilly winds of winter will likely keep many a wood-burning stove glowing, leaving stove owners with the ashes to dispose of. Many gardening books advise throwing these ashes in the garden. But what affect do these ashes have on the garden?Wood ash does have fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10%potash, 1% phosphate and trace amounts of micro nutrients such as iron,manganese, boron, copper and zinc. Trace amounts of heavy metals such as lead, cadmium, nickel and chromium also may be present. Wood ashes do not contain nitrogen.The largest component of wood ash (about 25%) is calcium carbonate, a common liming material which increases soil alkalinity. Wood ash has a very fine particle size which causes it to react rapidly and completely in the soil.So although small amounts of nutrients are applied with wood ash, the main effect is that of a liming agent.Increasing the alkalinity of the soil does affect plant nutrition. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus,iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.Applying small amounts of wood ash to most soils will not adversely affect your garden crops and the ash does help replenish some nutrients. But because wood ash increases soil pH, adding large amounts can do more harm than good. Keep in mind that wood ash which has been exposed to the weather, particularly rainfall, has lost a lot of its potency including nutrients.Specific recommendations for the use of wood ash in the garden are difficult to make because soil composition and reaction varies from garden to garden. Distinctly acidic soils (pH less that 5.5) will likely be improved by wood ash addition. Soils that are slightly acidic (pH 6.0 to 6.5) should not be harmed by the application of 20 pounds per 100 square feet, annually.However, if your soil is neutral or alkaline (pH greater than 7.0), find another way to dispose of the wood ash. If you donÂt know the acidity or alkalinity of your soil, have it tested for pH.Crop tolerance to alkaline soil also should be considered. Some plants such as asparagus and junipers are more tolerant of slightly alkaline conditions than "acid-loving" plants such as potatoes, rhododendrons, and blueberries.Wood ash should never be used on such acid-loving plants" Too much ash can increase pH or accumulate high levels of salts that can be harmful to some plants, so use ashes carefully. Wood ash has a NPK of 0-1-3

Dear liciousd, I have all the natives you're looking for. The best time to move plants, especially trees and shrubs, is after they have gone dormant in fall. Would you like to arrange a trade sometime in late Oct or Nov? Another option you have is the Snohomish Conservation District Plant Sale. They register preorders in late December and the pickup date is the first weekend in March at the Monroe Fairgrounds. The selection of native plants is extensive, the plants are very robust, and the prices are super cheap. Again, these plants are dormant and transplant easily. Regards, Jim Eichner Woodinville, WA Here is a link that might be useful: Snohomish Conservation District

Hi Pyewacket2, As you said, the Waterhousia can grow to be much taller than your preferred 6 metres. The only way to restrict its growth effectively is an annual prune which can be a massive job, not to mention hazardous. The Waterhousia also has a very different habit to the Elaeocarpus eumondii, being wide and weepy compared with the narrower, upright habit of the Elaeocarpus. If you want my advice, always select a plant that fits the size limit rather than limiting the plant. Why fight nature? I'd look at maybe downsizing the Elaeoocarpus to save on cost. Smaller plants will establish faster and often catch up to the super advanced stock within a couple of years. The Eleaocarpus will be well worth the wait. It's a much more attractive tree all round in my opinion. Small to medium trees you may find easier to source are Magnolia 'Little Gem', Elaeocarpus reticulatus (Blueberry Ash) or Cupaniopsis anarchardioides (Tuckeroo). Blueberry ash doesn't perform well when planted in lawns and Tuckeroos can vary a bit in size and growth habit. Sorry, I can't comment on root invasion. All trees pose a risk and can make a liar of you. The best you can do is avoid planting too close to services. I hope this helps. Mark

Definitely wait until after flowering before pruning. And I think I'd hold the blood and bone, etc. as well - you don't want to burn the new roots or overdose the plant. In any case, the camellia has to produce new roots before it an effectively take up nutrients. Give it some nice mulch (but keep it away from the trunk), keep moist (not wet) and BE PATIENT. The weather is going to cool down a bit and that will take some of the stress off the plant. If it is likely to get blown about in the wind, consider putting in three or four temporary posts with attached shadecloth. At the moment, the plant is probably a bit top heavy with few anchoring roots and movement is likely to break the new roots. The shadecloth will filter the wind and keep the plant stable. Alternatively, use 3 or 4 guy ropes (pad the trunk well) atttached to short posts to stablise the plant.