All right, I have "renovated" (removed all leaves and stems down to about an inch above the ground) and transplanted my strawberries into two larger containers. I will update this thread again when (if) they grow back to let posterity know how it worked. The tomato is still limping along, but it does seem to like the shade better. The tomatoes are mostly small and ripening slowly, but taste pretty yummy. I guess I'll just let it finish its cycle and use a better soil and better plant stock next time!

I don't have a label in front of me but I have some. I didn't think you were supposed to use acephate on food crops. acephate is a tricky one for usage rates because in comes in a variety of strengths...and usages. When it is packaged for use on fire ants that is all that you can use that product for BY LAW. And of course it doesn't give directions for anything other than fire ant app. In real life I take care of roses. Last year I had whitefly on some miniature roses. The flies laughed at every thing I sprayed on them...including acephate. When i had whitefly on my eggplant I used a soap product that worked well.

Before I offer a bit of info, let me mention that when posting you would better help folks to assist you if you add your zone & geographic area (city or town would be good, along with the state, of course). Your "My Page" listing of "United States" is of no help whatsoever. Don't worry, we will not stalk you. :-) It's powdery mildew on the cucurbits in the first two photos. This has been of epidemic proportions in a large part of the Midwest, in my garden and from what I hear from friends and correspondents in MI, PA and here in OH. Looks like some sort of leaf miners in the last couple pictures, and blight on the tomatoes. Check the links in this earier GW post regarding tomato troubles, linked below. As for the powdery mildew, here is some info from Ohio State: POWDERY MILDEW DISEASES. Many plants are affected by powdery mildew diseases, with different powdery mildew fungi causing the disease on different plants. The most familiar way to recognize powdery mildew diseases is the actual "sign" of the powdery mildew fungus growing on the upper leaf surface. This powdery growth is a combination of asexual spores of powdery mildew fungi in combination with threadlike strands of the fungus called hyphae. The mass of this powdery mildew fungal tissue is visible to the naked eye, but individual spores and fungal hyphae are not; these forms of the fungus, capable of causing infection, are microscopic in size. One of the overwintering forms of the fungus are dark-colored fruiting bodies know as cleistothecia, that are visible as small round objects on leaves, resembling grains of pepper. "Symptoms" (effects on plants from infections) of powdery mildew diseases are sometimes not recognized as being caused by powdery mildew fungi. On a plant like lilac, often symptoms are not apparent - all you see is the powdery white sign of the pathogen. Control involves improving air movement and reducing high relative humidity, to the extent possible, with judicious pruning and plant siting and use of powdery-mildew resistant varieties when available. Also recognize that in many cases the disease causes little harm to plant health, though fungicides may be used when necessary. Common powdery mildew fungicides include: triforine (e.g. Funginex), thiophanate-methyl (e.g. Cleary's 3336), and propiconazole (e.g. Banner). Read and follow the fungicide label carefully when applying to a particular plant. Powdery mildew fungicides can be very effective because the fungal infection by powdery mildew fungi is very superficial compared to most fungal infections, with the fungus only penetrating into the epidermal layer of cells. There are organic preventives (biofungicides) for powdery mildew, too, but as you will read, most, if not all, need to be used before the symptoms develop. See http://www.gardensalive.com/category.asp?c=15 Hope this has been helpful. Here is a link that might be useful: Identifying tomato problems

I am having this problem currently with my Roma tomatoes. It is late in the season and I think the plants are stressed from both the white flies and age--but I've left the tomatoes on the vine or put in the sun if they dropped off on their own and the ripening process has continued. The tomatoes taste good still too so I have still been eating them. My concern and search/research was motivated by a desire to know if eating the fruits would have any negative affects health wise. This has been harder to find. No chemicals just bugs--I can share. Hoping all is well.