There is an important distinction that needs to be made here. OrTHENE and OrthoNEX are NOT the same pesticide. They are the same to the extent that both employ the active ingredient ACEPHATE. But OrthoNEX is a mixture of Acephate with the fungicide that is sold as FUNGINEX. The warning on the Funginex bottle warns against getting even the smallest amount of this product in your eyes...it can cause blindness. You should not inhale this product either. Orthonex is the product that used to be (and probably still is) sold as ROSEPRIDE, and is used to prevent blackspot in roses. These chemicals are not "nothing". They have an impact on the environment every time you use them, whether you see it or not. If you are using Orthinex and you don;t really need to be preventing fungal disease, you are using a doubly environmentally unfriendly gaent unnecessarily. I stopped using all forms of chemical pesticide and herbicide (like Round Up) when I began to notice physical abnormalities in the local population of native green treefrogs on my property. I live on 5 acres of land and have pretty extensive ornamental plantings, as well as a population of frogs that probably numbers in the tens of thousands (our property backs up to a Nature Preserve and a natural wetland). We noted that the new generations of baby treefrogs were hatching out on our property with deformities, mainly missing eyes and deformed heads, and some with missing limbs, when we were using Cygon 2E to control black pepper scale on bromeliads and Orthene to control magnolia scale on palms. The treefrogs were using our bromeliads as incubators for their eggs and tadpoles. We stopped using it and within 2 generations we stopped seeing these genetic abnormalities in our frogs. This was a very scary wakeup call to me, especially as we have a well for our water. THINK before you spray.

I have used the Canola White Oil mixture by Rob Smythe and it worked well to control black spot on a couple of my Neos. I couldn't find Sill detergent and used Dishwashing liquid instead. Rick. Text below copied from the FCBS.Org website: CANOLA WHITE OIL - 'Oils aint Oils Soll!' By: Rob Smythe At the Cairns Bromeliads X conference I spoke about 'Growing Neoregelias in the Dry Tropics'. A small part of this lecture captured the imagination of the delegates and that was about my successful use of canola oil for eradication of flyspeck scale and any scale for that matter. When I started to speak I am sure all the audience was saying under their breath was, ' Oils are oils'. 'Why are we to listen to this, every book ever written says don't use oils on broms'? By the end of the talk I think I convinced them that, 'Oils aint oils Soll', as per TV advertisement. In case you don't want to bother with my scientific explanation I will set out some rules for those who just want to try it out. Could I say first the story of canola versus mineral white oil with plants parallels the difference between butter (animal) and polyunsaturated margarine (vegetable) for humans. In both cases they look much the same but they function quite differently. How to make it? I can honestly say I have only used measurements once and that was to have something to write in this section. It does not matter much what quantities you use. It is just how much you leave on the plant that is important. Canola White Oil. Canola Oil 750 ml, 'Sill' Detergent 3 tablespoons full and water 1250 ml. I usually mix this in a two-litre milk bottle and shake it violently. You can use a blender. Let the white oil emulsion rise to the top. Put a small hole in the bottom of the milk bottle and carefully open the lid. Drain off all the excess water and detergent then put the white oil into a new milk bottle. You will find if fairly quickly separates back into oil and water layers. It should be used fairly promptly when fresh. You will find with time that the white oil left behind will stay as an emulsion longer and longer. This can be explained chemically but not here. The message is make big batches and store it. Each time you use it shake it well. Canola White Oil Spray - How to mix it. Canola White Oil 300ml, vinegar or ammonia 300ml water 4 litters. Vinegar-brand does not matter. Ammonia, stick with 'Superior' brand as my tests in 1997 have shown that it then did not have any phytotoxic detergents added. It is also the cheapest, per unit of ammonia present, that I have found. Detergent I have only used Sill and Alginox. My tests have shown these are not phytotoxic at low concentrations. My experiments have shown that 3ml of Alginox per 5litres of water is OK for the smallest plants. My studies were done growing orchids in flasks and actually growing them in the solution. As an aside I have found Alginox, when used to kill algae, it is more effective to use it more concentrated than this but be sure to wash it off after an hour or two in contact with the algae. You will know if it works by the stench of dead algae. Algae are very small and have a very high surface to mass ratio and hence take up toxic levels much quicker than other plants. Don't mix ammonia and vinegar together as one destroys the activity of the other. Remember when plants (Neoregelias) are coloured up use vinegar (actually enhances red colour and cleans calcium deposits off the leaves as well). When plants are in their greener stage use the ammonia. I often use the vinegar spray just to brighten up the plants when I am expecting brom. visitors. The other positive thing is that vinegar prevents mosquitos, strangely adult larvae don't appear bothered too much, but immature larvae don't survive. How to use canola spray? During overcast or wet weather spray on the plants. If you must use it during fine weather, spray it on in the evening. After a few hours or in the morning in the latter case use a strong jet of water to wash the bulk off. Be sure to wash out the vase. Very thin film is safe for Neoregilias in Townsville. Now during the next couple of days UV light and moisture will degrade the canola oil. Some of it will be turned into weak acids that will dissolve in water but a fine layer of white wax can form which lifts off in a day or so. This wax has what we chemists call carboxylic acid groups which also make it very slightly soluble in water. So if you have done things correctly you have put a small film of oil over the plant softening and smothering the scale. Whereas paraffin oils (garden white oil) will do the same but it stays in place blocking the trichomes (scurf) and the underlying breathing/transpiration apparatus of the plant (stomata) preventing the taking up of moisture and nutrients. Bromeliads have most of their stomata on the underside of the leaf so special care should be taken when spraying there. Plants should not be thickly closed in as to exclude light from this area. I use preventative spraying in autumn and spring and I only spray the top surface. If I find a plant subsequently showing scale on the top surface, I remove it and spray it while upside down as well as on top. One good spray is usually enough. Usually I return them directly back to the collection. If I acquire a badly infested plant I quarantine it until I am sure it is OK to add to the collection. What can go wrong? #1 Too much canola oil can lead to a change in chemistry. Instead of getting a soluble decomposition product, which of course washes away, you form what we chemists called a condensed aldehyde polymer, which can form a film under such conditions. This is a reason boiled linseed oil is used in paint. This polymer will coat the leaf like a coat of paint that has not set. Plant can smother. If it is not too thick black sooty mold will form on it and destroy it as unlike paraffin oil this polymer has oxygen in its make up and so forms food just like honeydew does from aphids which we know promotes sooty mold. If you find a build up of sticky stuff or the leaves go black you need to scrub the plants with detergent. Best to avoid the problem by using a thin film even if you have to treat the plants a second time. As you could surmise I made this error once when I noticed soft scale on Billbergia 'Kyoto'. These plants were on my expendable list as they were byproducts of a development of a new sport that I am working on. They were left with a thick coat and I explained the consequences above. The outcome was they all lived and did not lose their leaves but they only grew to about half the size when compared to another unsprayed and clean group. Interestingly the white wax deposits left on the leaves now feel rough and can be rubbed off with the fingers. I don't think it would be impairing gas and moisture movements but would be cutting down photosynthesis. I don't think I should be saying this but on occasions I have been known to spray my plants with oil and vinegar on hot sunny days but I do wash them immediately. Dangerous but it is just a case of vanity. ' Your plants look so good, you are really growing them well, they never go as red as that in Sydney'. With care and plenty of hosing you can get away with it but I don't recommend you try but guess you will all the same. #2 As mentioned above white deposits can occur on leaves just like the dead algal deposits you get when the algae (spirogyra, Americans at the Conference called this green snot) is killed with an algaecide like Alginox. The dead plant life is carried up the leaf as the leaf grows and out of the water forming a white deposit. If you do not wash the vase after spraying with canola oil a similar white thick layer of wax forms and is carried out of the water and looks exactly like dead algae. It is not harmful but looks crook. #3 New leaves emerging from the water can be damaged by the oil if the oil is left in the vase. Anyone spraying insecticide knows the problem well. Insecticides come dissolved in things like xylene which make a milky white emulsion in water but after spraying on bromeliads the oil base rises and settles on the water surface and wrecks new growth. Inner leaves topple over bending at a soft near transparent line near the water's edge. If you are tempted to add insecticide which I believe is unnecessary be doubly careful to avoid this problem. #4 You may think, as with paraffin based white oils that the plants should be put in the shade. No they must be left in bright light to degrade the canola oil. Paraffin blocks transpiration and when left in sunlight the plant burns. Hence you keep them in the shade so they don't stress. Using canola in the shade is the same as using parafin and hence not recommended. Use it only in bright light unlike paraffin. Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.fcbs.org/articles/canola.htm

Hi everyone. I would just like to add to what sunshine_qld said, and that is that "fly speck" is a type of scale; i.e a living sap sucking insect. Here in Australia I use a systemic insecticide called "Confidor" the active ingredient in it is called Imidacloprid. I know Imidacloprid is used in America but it may be under another name, ask a reputable nursery. As prevention is better than cure, the other important thing you need to be aware of is that over crowding of plants and prevention of good air circulation are the fastest ways of spreading this insect and a sure way of finishing up with an epidemic in extreme cases. Use the link below and scroll down to the "Illawarra Bromeliad Society Inc.Club News 04/08", there is an article which tells you all about this pest. http://search.babylon.com/?q=fly+speck+scale&babsrc=HP_ss&s=web&rlz=0amp;as=0amp;ac=0 All the best, Nev.

Hi Dan, First time I've really had the chance to sit down at the computer for a couple of weeks, so I'll give it a go. I'm sure others will add to it, and if they disagree, then I get to learn too! 1. I'm not really sure if overwatering can be a problem by itself, but two things might happen depending on other factors: First is nutrients. If you continually flush all the nutrients away with tap water, then the plant will be starved. Then again, if you keep adding new nutrients with frequent foliar feeding or occasional slow release, then this should not be a problem. Second is drainage of the growing medium. If the drainage is too slow for the amount of watering and the plant ends up sitting in a stagnant soggy mess, then you can be pretty certain it will rot, especially if the air circulation is poor. If the growing medium drains very quickly and does not get soggy, I would be surprised if any amount of periodic watering would cause a problem - although it would be interesting if people have found otherwise. 2. Main cause of limp leaves is not enough light. Some Neos won't develop their brightest colours if they get too much fertiliser and their foliage might be more elongate than if starved, but if the light is strong enough for that variety, then the leaves generally should not be limp. I have an Aech. nudicaulis v. aequalis that gets its cup flushed with fresh 1/2 strength liquid fertiliser every 2 weeks or so and little other watering in its cup, but growing in full sun all morning it is compact and brightly coloured. This assumes that the fertiliser or growing medium (or gunge collecting in the cup) has a reasonable balance of nutrients. If the plant is short of potassium and calcium then you can expect limp foliage, and this will be exaggerated if nitrogen is high. I've found phostrogen brand "all purpose" to be good for soluble (N:P:K=14:4:22 plus traces except Ca), but I don't know much about slow releases - mainly because I haven't been able to get my hands on one yet that has a nutrient balance that I like - all the ones I see have high N. 3. If it is just the very bottom leaves going tubular every so often as each one reaches the end of its normal life, then that would be normal ..... um, did I really type that? Anyway, I hope you know what I mean. 4. Like just about everything else alive, broms need to get some copper. The fertiliser I use has Cu at .0055%w/v and seems to work well. 5. Re the orchid fertliser, there are some around with very high nitrogen. If it is one of those I would not use it, otherwise as for 2. 6. I can always find a few scale around out in the garden if I look hard enough, but I would only worry about it if it became obvious enough to disfigure the plants. A major infestation could certainly cause a lot of damage but this is not something that I've ever had to deal with in broms (orchids? now that's a different matter). If it did happen, I would suspect that there is something about the growing environment that is putting the plants under stress and weakening their resistance. If the picture involves limp foliage as in point 2, then insufficient potassium and/or calcium (or maybe other nutrients?) could certainly be suspected. Anyway, hope this helps. Best of luck with the brom growing. Cheers, Paul