No, it's a whole collection of new cultivars of tropical hibiscus that are called Cajun Hibiscus. There are probably at least 60 or 70 different ones, but they go by their cajun name. The collection was created by a Loyola professor who also served as the president of the New Orleans chapter of the American Hibiscus Society and a breeder at a nursey in Plaquemine, La. Some of their names are "envie' "cajun blue" "Voodoo Queen" "creole lady" and so on. I will try to post a link to a site that has a lot of them to see...this site does sell and I am not trying to promote that, just posting it for pictures and info only. They are a very beautiful collection and what I like the best is that the flowers are huge and the plants are very vigorous growers. Many blooms are 7-9 inches across. I have a bunch of these, they are the only ones I buy now - one big downfall though....they are sterile and do not produce seed!!! BUT, they do take from cuttings...so this fall I plan on rooting all that I can to trade!! Hope this helps!! God bless!! Here is a link that might be useful: Cajun Hibiscus

You might want to change your fertilizer. What you're using has twice as much nitrogen as phosphorus. Nitrogen contributes to dark green color and foliage growth. Phosphorus encourages flowering and root growth. Also, the more sun it gets the better it will bloom. I had four of them in the backyard of my house when I bought it two years ago. None of them get as much sun as I'm sure they would like but a couple get more than the other two. Mine do not bloom as well as my neighbor's, but hers is pretty much in full sun all day. Two of mine are in more shade than sun, and last year both of them barely bloomed at all. This past spring I dug up one of my two that were in shade and transplanted it to the front of the house where it's in sun from just shortly after sunrise until 2 or 3 pm, and not only has it bloomed much better, it's also grown much larger than it did in the back last year. So much larger that I'm thinking I should dig it up again next spring and thin it out a little. If yours are in more shade than sun then you should consider moving it somewhere with more sun, if possible. They are really easy to move, as I found out last April, providing you do so while the plants are still dormant. Here's a picture of the transplanted one taken a little over a month ago. It's much taller now and crowding the rose (left in the picture). Last year it barely got half the size in this picture. Debra

I know various members in our plant group grow it. Have you tried Kuranga Native Nursery in Mt Evelyn..........they are sure to have it, or get it in for you. Failing that, you could join an APS group near you, and probably get cuttings that way from members. Most monthly meetings involve plant sales, or opportunity to get cuttings of interesting stuff. See the link to find a local group in Victoria. Here is a link that might be useful: Australian Plants Society Vic.

I brought this thread up to thank Jim for posting an excellent article on the danger of high phosphorus: "Phosphorus carries a chemical charge that competes with other micronutrients for plant uptake. Excess amounts result in leaf chlorosis because iron, manganese, and zinc are not available to the plant. Leaf tissue turns yellow while veins stay green." http://www.rose.org/phosphorus-fallacies-too-much-of-a-good-thing/ From StrawChicago: Agree with the above, except for the quote "Commercial growers of roses for cut-flower production typically use fertilizers with a 3-1-2 NPK ratio." That applies to pots or sandy soil, but NOT for alkaline clay. Alkaline clay has more beneficial bacteria to fix nitrogen from air. I used that ratio 3-1-2 before and got a 5 feet tall own-root Scepter'd Isle, plus a giant Charles Darwin (own-root). I gave both away since they got too big & less blooms. From Wikipedia: "By volume, dry air contains 78.09% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen." Agree 100% with the quote "Phosphorus fixates, or becomes immobile, in the soil quickly after application. This fixation is minimized at a pH level of 6.0-7.0. So all the extra phosphorus in fertilizer will become unavailable at pH levels above or below that range." With my foolish experiments of bone meal (top-dress or in the hole) ... I notice that high phosphorus induce foliage diseases, due to the suppression of zinc, a very strong anti-fungal agent. Bone meal has 24% calcium and 11% phosphorus, that's NOT as bad as higher % of phosphorus in MG-Soluble. I tested MG-Soluble before: more blooms, but more fungal diseases, plus more pests. High phosphorus induce foliage problems in my Thai basil. That hole was previously occupied by Sharifa Asma, it's right under a rain-spout, so nitrogen get leached out (10 mobility), potassium also leached out (3 mobility), but phosphorus stay put (1 mobility). I put too much Encap cow manure (high phosphorus) in that hole. Sharifa was blooming great ...6 blooms for a tiny plant (6 inch x 6 inch). But after blooming, it broke down in black spots. So I moved Sharifa out, and put a Thai Basil. Here's how Thai basil looks like, tons of blooms, but very thin foliage, with black spots, plus potassium deficiency in lower leaves. The leaves are much paler, smaller, and thinner due to zinc and iron less available.