The space will look and work fine as a fully planted landscape bed ... not as an activity area. Fill the space with shade tolerant groundcover, of which there would be several options. Some of the easiest would be tricolor or regular oyster plant, or Asiatic Jasmine. More expensive but very nice looking is painted ginger (usually found in the house plant section.) Flaming torch bromeliad is also a good choice for under trees. (Gardeners frequently offer their excess plants on Craigslist or Facebook.)

When I bought Olivia Rose Austin the DA website said she was good with shade. That was not my experience. Now that I lost (sadly) my big oak in a wind that gave a bit of dappled shade mid-afternoon to the garden, Olivia has just exploded in growth. So, I guess she was sulking in her not ideal spot the whole time, and is only now living up to expectations. The Poet's Wife is right next to her and has been fine the entire time. I'm also thinking that Desdemona doesn't like shade, either...contrary to some other reports. And I'm in California!

Do you get deer in your neighborhood? Just in general, consider bringing a very large planter (or 3) and having a tree/trees. If you don’t have harsh winters, many tropical trees grow in shade and won’t need to be brought inside. Otherwise, if you are strong with no back issues, you can put big planters with winter-hardy trees or tropical vines in them on hand carts and put them in a protected place in winter. Some planters that are made to look like stone are actually plastic and not very heavy in themselves — although filled with dirt and rocks they are impossible to carry alone. These happen to be roses, which wouldn’t grow in shade, but tropical flowering vines trained up a post or trellis would. Or tropical (planters come in all kinds of finishes to suit your house)

I just got back from the local nurseries, plants are super expensive, so I would give you a couple of additional pointers added on to the excellent ones already posted. An attractive plant assemblage has something called "year round interest." That helps your landscape from looking fabulous during one season and "blah" for the other three, which is what you will have in LI. Also, it's key to having your plantings look good to remember success is largely due to "right plant, right place." Plants have idea soil and light and moisture requirements, as well as space and they get along better with some plant neighbors than others. So spend some time observing your front foundation area and figure out how much sun and shade you actually get. There's a big difference between full shade and partial shade as far as what will grow and give you some color. Also, a mix of evergreen and perennial shrubs plus some with interesting bark will assure that your plants have some "winter interest" which is the toughest. The biggest problem I can see with your current landscaping is you have some kind of small tree or big shrub right in front of the bay window, so that you can't see out and its beautiful form cannot be appreciated from the street. I'd hack that thing down without remorse because you have another one next to it anyway. You have what appears to be a blue bird's nest spruce or some other kind of spruce weirdly pruned right next to the door. It's not my cup of tea but it does add another color, bluish green. If that's what I'm seeing, hard to tell. It also appears that on the far left corner of the house (from my view looking at the house) you have a Japanese maple that has a lovely form, just not leafed out when this picture was taken. I don't know what you love about your neighbor's front, but some of the nice things I see is that they have shrubs and small trees with a variety of shapes and colored foliage, and a weeping evergreen, plus some kind of shrub that is in bloom and maybe has reddish foliage. Those are some elements you are missing if you like. A very nice landscape shrub for flowers, scent and stunning fall foliage is Mt. Airy Dwarf Fothergilla. Very hardy and does well in shade. It's pretty but not exciting in the summer but wonderful in the spring when it is blooming, and fall when the leaves turn brilliant shades of orange-ish red. You can grow another shrub I love but doesn't thrive in my zone, Japanese andromeda, which you can find labeled "Pieris Japonica." There is also a similar native plant called "Leucothe" which is not quite as showy but is a broad leaved more or less evergreen plant so that would be a nice contrast to the evergreens you already have. Another fabulous spring flowering set of shrubs that you can grow in your zone are the rhododendrons. There are also azaleas but they need more sun. That's why I said check your actual sunny hours and what time of day. These are spring bloomers but look nice structurally at other times. And then there are a whole set of viburnum's and hydrangeas that are the big early or late summer bloomers. Viburnum are white blooming, the native highbush cranberry also has stunning red berries in the fall. That one grows to be a beast but if you are into it, you can keep it pruned back, but it will take work. I see they offer a dwarf variety but you may not be able to find it. There are lots of dwarf hydrangeas like little lime, etc. Now, if you indeed have at least six hours of sun, then you can grow some pink flowering shrubs like "Wine and Roses" or "Spilled wine" weigela and goldmound or magic carpet spirea. These small shrubs have colorful foliage and beautiful early summer pink blooming. Just some ideas to get your juices flowing. Go to a reputable nursery where you can get someone to help you who knows what goes with what and what is easy care. It's also important to space your shrubs far enough apart to leave room for how big they will get when they reach their mature size. Smaller shrubs are cheaper and they grow faster than the larger ones, but they look a little sparse for the first year or two. The standard garden technique for handling that situation is to inter-plant with colorful annuals until your shrubs fill in. It happens fast.