The fairly regularly spaced brown dots near the leaf margins are occurring in extremely large cells called lithocysts, or sometimes 'rock cells'. They're sometimes referred to as 'rock cells' because they contain a concretion ('rock') of calcium carbonate in each cell. Because these cells differ in structure from surrounding cells, it shouldn't be surprising that they are more or less affected than surrounding cells by unfavorable cultural conditions, so their claim to fame in this case is, "You saw it here first". If your plant is seemingly back on track and has a lot of foliage, you can cut through the stems of spoiled leaves, leaving the stub of the petiole attached to the branch. It will fall off in a week or so. Wait though, to see that the foliage loss is stabilized and growth has resumed before you start pruning leaves. Ficus b doesn't appreciate being over-watered. It causes a drought response and shedding of foliage, along with other issues like slow growth, impaired root function, Ca deficiencies, ..... Ideally, the plant would be in a soil that allows you to water to beyond saturation whenever you water, w/o having to worry about root health/function. If you can't water correctly, you'll be in constant battle with your plant's soil for control of the plant's vitality. The following links should be helpful: About Ficus b Help with excess water retention. Al

I know you've been around the forums for a while, so I'm wondering if you've been monitoring soil moisture levels with a 'tell'? A tell is much more effective than a "moisture meter" or a digital device (a finger). The symptoms do look like there are issues in play which are related to an overly water-retentive soil and or a high level of salts in the soil. Please tell us how you decide when it's time to water, how you fertilize, what you use, and how often you apply the fertilizer. Does your pot have a drain hole? Do you have a set-up so that once water exits the drain hole, there is no possibility of the effluent finding a pathway back into the soil. What kind of temps, light levels, humidity, is the plant dealing with? Water uptake is an energy-driven process, and it takes oxygen in the root zone to burn the food to make the energy. An inadequate oxygen supply = limited root function = an inability to move water to the plants most distal parts (leaf tips/margins) = the manifestation of the symptoms depicted in your images. So, let's wait to see what you have to say, then see if we can determine what needs fixing, then develop a plan to get it fixed. Al

It's a cultural issue that's affecting root function and/or health. If you water after testing the soil with a finger to see if the top couple of inches of soil is dry, you're probably over-watering, and, a high level of dissolved solids (salts) might or might not be in play. Ideally, you would be flushing the soil as you water - so the entire soil mass gets saturated and at least 15-25% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain hole. After the effluent exits the drain hole, there should be NO pathway by which the salt-laden effluent can make its way back into the soil. This should be helpful. Al

Looks a lot like photo-oxidation (sunburn). Is all the damage facing the same direction, as though it might have been caused by excessive light? The necrotic areas of the leaves can't be fixed. It will gradually dry until crispy and be a part of the leaf until it's shed. It definitely wants a full repot, which is much more involved than potting up. BTW - that plants will pout until they have 'adjusted to their new surroundings' is a horticultural myth, and I JUST finished talking about that topic on this thread. Al