The fairly regularly spaced brown dots near the leaf margins are occurring in extremely large cells called lithocysts, or sometimes 'rock cells'. They're sometimes referred to as 'rock cells' because they contain a concretion ('rock') of calcium carbonate in each cell. Because these cells differ in structure from surrounding cells, it shouldn't be surprising that they are more or less affected than surrounding cells by unfavorable cultural conditions, so their claim to fame in this case is, "You saw it here first". If your plant is seemingly back on track and has a lot of foliage, you can cut through the stems of spoiled leaves, leaving the stub of the petiole attached to the branch. It will fall off in a week or so. Wait though, to see that the foliage loss is stabilized and growth has resumed before you start pruning leaves. Ficus b doesn't appreciate being over-watered. It causes a drought response and shedding of foliage, along with other issues like slow growth, impaired root function, Ca deficiencies, ..... Ideally, the plant would be in a soil that allows you to water to beyond saturation whenever you water, w/o having to worry about root health/function. If you can't water correctly, you'll be in constant battle with your plant's soil for control of the plant's vitality. The following links should be helpful: About Ficus b Help with excess water retention. Al

Any damage that is showing on your plants is mechanical - that means it came to be from shipping and other transport, handling or jostling. It is not the result of diseases or insects nor does it look like any watering issues. In reality, these plants look pretty darn good considering most big box stores do not take the slightest bit of care with their plants (hence the evidence of damage you are seeing). As to fertilizing, you need to identify your plants and then do a bit of research, as not all plants benefit from similar fertilization methods nor do they require it at the same time. Cacti and succulents have different needs than do tropical foliage plants and flowering houseplants (orchids, African violets, flowering gift plants) have yet another set of needs. In general, an all purpose liquid fertilizer used at 1/2 to 1/3 strength with every other watering is appropriate for most tropicals during their primary growing season (March through October) but you can get by with quite a bit less. I'd suggest you post this on the House Plants forum both to get accurate ID's on your plants and their advice as to when, how much and with what to best fertilize what you have.

Hi, I, like mostly everyone here, have a little story to tell about my fiddle leaf figs. I have a few of them that have gone through the painful (for me at least) repotting and separating, propagating etc process. I have 10 of them in different stages of growth, and aside from a baby one that's still in process of maturing, all the other ones are doing great. Or so I thought until I notice that some of the new leaves that came out since the repot (followed Al's soil formula found here) have these tiny brown spots and some cracking happening on the leaves. Apparently it's a leaf spot disorder caused by a bacteria, Xanthomonas campestris, which produces tan-to-brown dry spots on leaves that usually have irregular margins and can cause cracking of the leaf in the driest areas. Anyone here dealt with that and has some advice as to what to do and how to treat this? Thank you so much!

I know you've been around the forums for a while, so I'm wondering if you've been monitoring soil moisture levels with a 'tell'? A tell is much more effective than a "moisture meter" or a digital device (a finger). The symptoms do look like there are issues in play which are related to an overly water-retentive soil and or a high level of salts in the soil. Please tell us how you decide when it's time to water, how you fertilize, what you use, and how often you apply the fertilizer. Does your pot have a drain hole? Do you have a set-up so that once water exits the drain hole, there is no possibility of the effluent finding a pathway back into the soil. What kind of temps, light levels, humidity, is the plant dealing with? Water uptake is an energy-driven process, and it takes oxygen in the root zone to burn the food to make the energy. An inadequate oxygen supply = limited root function = an inability to move water to the plants most distal parts (leaf tips/margins) = the manifestation of the symptoms depicted in your images. So, let's wait to see what you have to say, then see if we can determine what needs fixing, then develop a plan to get it fixed. Al