Thankyou to all respondents. I must apologize for incorrect data in my profile. I am in Australia but the registration page requires a valid ZIP code - not accepting Australian format ... I have started with cement sheets for 4 raised beds: 180 cm x 60 cm x 45 cm. They look great, 2 painted in bright orange and two closely immitating timber: woodgrain textured cement boards painted over with Timber Effects Jarra paint. For the first 2 raised beds I built a frame from treated pine (painted over to prevent toxicity). From this experience I learned that such a solid frame was an overkill in sturdiness and cost. For the next 2 beds I used a sort of a frame (corner poles) made from garden stakes produced by http://www.plasticrecyclers.com.au/stakes.htm After the materials are brought home, it takes less than an hour to build such a bed (frame, cutting sheets to size, painting and setting up) For these beds I used woodscrews to affix cement sheets to the frame. The sheets used for the first 2 beds were the thin DuraSheets (4.5 mm) from http://www.bgc.com.au/fibrecement/s_02/02_durasheet.html on a solid frame. Later I swiched to 7.5 mm DuraPlank (same source) fixed to the light frame. As to the containers (currently 3) - I am using 300 mm wide sheets of 9 mm thickness on the frame from recycled plastic. Two walls are glued to the frame (poles) and two walls and a floor are fixed with screws so that the container can be easily disassembled for root treatment or stowing away as a flat pack. I am much encouraged with your prevailing opinion that toxicity of fiber (fibre in Aus) cement sheets is not a major issue especially if they are painted over. I'll try to post photos later PM

Lol - I had this conversation on the Houseplants Forum not long ago. Someone suggested that you COULDN'T put a small plant in a big pot because it wouldn't grow until it's roots filled the pot and on and on. Part of the objection was that it would be 'over-potting', but I patiently explained that over-potting was a function of your soil choice, that as the particles making up your soil grew larger and the PWT diminished, you could use larger and larger pots for tiny plants. I was challenged to produce picture proof, so I posted these pictures: which I just happened to have on hand because they were part of the documentation I had from some testing I did for Jeff from the UpsaDaisy company. It shows very small plants going into very large volumes of soil and what the plants looked like a few weeks later - healthy as can be. If you consider where the oft parroted advice to only pot up a size at a time originates, you'll find its roots embedded in heavy, peat-based soils. Because those soils retain soo much water, the lower reaches of the container often remain hypoxic for extended periods, producing fermentation and its associated noxious gasses and acting as a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria that causes root rot and other issues. To minimize the effects of the PWT associated with these soils, smaller soil volumes were required so air could return to the roots to save the day and prevent roots from rotting and the gasses from affecting root growth/function/metabolism. Obviously, if you could eliminate perched water or reduce it to the point where the entire soil mass was to return to a well-aerated state quickly, pot size wouldn't be a factor. Enter the well aerated soils like the 5:1:1 mix and gritty mix that allow you to plant in large containers with no worry for root issues if you pay a little attention to how you water until the planting is established. With a properly made gritty mix, you can plant the tiniest poppy seed in 100 gallons of soil and never have to worry about root rot, unless you purposely set out to prove that statement wrong and water like a madman twice a day! ;o) Al

This is my first year winter sowing. I'm using milk jugs, beverage bottles (2 liter and 24oz), and a few plastic containers I had saved for seed germinating and rootings indoors. Unfortunately, we don't go through a lot of milk or know anyone that does, so the soda bottles were needed... and I just happened to have a stash already cleaned and cut from a self-watering planter project last year. I did see something somewhere about putting regular planting pots in a large "treasure bag" (?) from a dollar store. Put holes in the bottom of the bag for drainage, and perhaps a skewer or something that's clean and doesn't mold when moist sticking up to keep the bag from collapsing. The posting I read said to use the tops of water bottles (well, any beverage bottle, I'd think), and sit those on the pot. Then use a rubber band to secure the bag to the bottle's neck, leaving the opening open. I wish I could remember where I read that... Here's a link that might be useful. I'm going to try it this year for my clematis seeds. The site is about clematis, and since most need stratification, I figured this method of germination would work for winter sowing. Seems easy enough. http://www.bcollingwood.com/Germination.htm

I just got back from the Dulverton area, and also visited Salisbury. Lovely country. All the roses I saw were healthy, and of course with the rain lately, its hard to imagine the sun fading anything in England. Red roses have some great scent, so I would consider one like Chrysler Imperial, or if you like a larger tea type, Veterans Honor is another. Both grew well in Columbia, SC in a full sun garden. While CI can get some fading, it never seemed to be a problem with VH.