Idabean, coppicing is cutting a plant to a short stump, and allowing new growth to create a new leader. In short, by coppicing you're basically cutting to the ground, or nearly so. Pollarding is entirely different, and only some species of trees are suitable. In pollarding, you allow your chosen branches to reach a desired height, then you prune ALL new growth at this level every year or two. Pruning is done to preserve the branch collar to help the wound heal. New growth is never allowed to stay on the tree much over 2 years, at which time it becomes progressively more woody, and harder for the plant to heal the pruning wound. Over time, the accumulation of the healed branch collars cause the production of a bulbous knob at the end of your chosen branch, called a pollard head. Some people hate the look, some love it. Pollarding a tree, if done with purpose and care, it NOT the same as heading a tree back, which is butchery. Do a Google image search for "pollard trees" to see some examples. There are also some good websites that explain the intricacies of good pollarding. I am also pleaching some of my trees. Google "pleaching" for a whole new tree-gardening idea! Cheers

I just got back from the Dulverton area, and also visited Salisbury. Lovely country. All the roses I saw were healthy, and of course with the rain lately, its hard to imagine the sun fading anything in England. Red roses have some great scent, so I would consider one like Chrysler Imperial, or if you like a larger tea type, Veterans Honor is another. Both grew well in Columbia, SC in a full sun garden. While CI can get some fading, it never seemed to be a problem with VH.

More important than the pot, perhaps, is how large the vine will grow and whether you have room for it indoors -- and how you'll support it if you do have room. For varieties which do not grow so tall, see the "Container Tomatoes" and "Dwarf Tomatoes" sections in Tatiana's TOMATObase: http://t.tatianastomatobase.com:88/wiki/Category:Container_Tomatoes http://t.tatianastomatobase.com:88/wiki/Category:Dwarf_Tomatoes In some cases the articles cite plant height. Some people do say it's possible to grow some smaller-vined tomatoes in containers under 5 gallons -- but details are difficult to come by. === If you're ever contemplating using a container you don't know the size of, you can calculate the volume in inches, then divide the total by 231. That will give you the number of gallons.

Hi pos02, I've been thinking of a kind lechenaultia at some stage, I think they are lovely :) But it will only get direct late afternoon sun 2-4 hours at most as the area is a covered walkway. Will this be enough? It will be frost free at least. I was thinking if I invest in a nice high pot (they can be so expensive!) the pot will be protecting the windows from direct sun rather than the plant/shrub.