October17, The pole beans would be all of the greasy beans, any runner or half runner. There are also several that have pole in their name, making those pretty easy to spot. Bean, Big & Early White Greasy Bean, Blue Coco Bean, Brown Striped Greasy Bean, Brown Tobacco Worm Bean, Haricot Dolique Bean, Ideal Market Bean, Lazy Housewife Pole Bean, Maxibel Bean, Missouri Brown Bean, Mountaineer Half Runner Bean, Pencil Pod Bean, Rattlesnake Pole Bean, Riggins Stick Bean, Small White Greasy Bean, Spartan Runner Bean, Sunset Runner Bean, White Half Runner I think that is about all of the pole beans. What varieties of tomatoes do you have available? I looked at your trade list, but it doesnt have any tomatoes listed as being available.

Hi Pippi! You are correct that the jugs being nestled together keeps the flaps in place. Also, I place my jugs on the patio on the east side of the house, the least windy location on my property. There's also a 6' wooden fence around the backyard, which also cuts down on the winds there. The seed germinating mixes I've used are made by either Jiffy or Schultz. They might be label seed starter mix. They are organic, and contain peat moss, vermiculite, lime, and a wetting agent. They usually have it out when the seed displays are first put out in the spring. Sowed 15 containers today. Well, actually it was 16 things, but I had to double up on the last container. Here's what was sown: Black Cumin Cilantro Basil, Fine Verde Summer Savory Parsley, Big Italy Parsley, Extra Curled Dwarf Dill Lemon Catmint Black Eyed Susan Vine Nasturtium, Tip Top Apricot Nasturtium, Copper Sunset Marigold, Lemon Gem Zinnia, Zahara Bonfire Portulaca, Happy Hour Red Portulaca, Happy Hour Lemon These last two containers probably won't germinate. My 5 year old daughter was helping me sow the seeds, which she did very carefully, but then as she was walking across the backyard to put those two jugs on the patio, she tripped and the contents went flying. I don't have any more seeds or I would resow, and they are so tiny that even though I put the dirt back in the jug, the seeds are probably buried too far to germinate. A small price to pay for being able to pass on my love of gardening to the next generation! Bonnie

I grew Earl of Edgecombe a couple of years ago, and they were always green, orange or a combination of green and orange as ripening proceeded, but I don't ever remember any yellow, even when overripe. Also, they were fairly small and uniform. Below is a picture... the EOE's are the two orange ones.

The day they were planted it was 92 degrees, 93 the next day. This far north the sun is MUCH more intense in June/July, especially at higher elevations, than most areas south of the 45th parallel. Add in the lack of humidity, where the water vapor also serves to diffuse the suns rays, and some young plants seem to get irreversably sunscalded. I doubt any studies have been done specific to this situation, but it appears that intense heat/lighyt even before fruit set, can permanently damage a plant. I can only surmise it has something to do with damage to the growing point, just as happens with frost damage. Since I plant everything in a 24 hour period, I can only suppose certain varieties are more susceptible, as Kosovo, Anna Russian, and Gregori Altai were last year, and a couple others like Prudens Purple and Early Cascade in previous years. Its not really white cores. Sublethal sunscald causes yellow dry streaks that extend beyond the shoulders. At a more insidious level, I can't think of the technical terms, but the "shell" of the tomato between the skin and the gel, where there is like a vascular system, can be white with no flavor too, although it is perfectly red on the outside. If the other plants right alongside in the row with the afflicted variety have no such disorder, than the affected plant does not come back the next year.