October17, The pole beans would be all of the greasy beans, any runner or half runner. There are also several that have pole in their name, making those pretty easy to spot. Bean, Big & Early White Greasy Bean, Blue Coco Bean, Brown Striped Greasy Bean, Brown Tobacco Worm Bean, Haricot Dolique Bean, Ideal Market Bean, Lazy Housewife Pole Bean, Maxibel Bean, Missouri Brown Bean, Mountaineer Half Runner Bean, Pencil Pod Bean, Rattlesnake Pole Bean, Riggins Stick Bean, Small White Greasy Bean, Spartan Runner Bean, Sunset Runner Bean, White Half Runner I think that is about all of the pole beans. What varieties of tomatoes do you have available? I looked at your trade list, but it doesnt have any tomatoes listed as being available.

Thanks for the reply Carolyn. Re: the cornmeal. It was just a silly impulse more than anything. I knew it wouldn't work, but figured that it wouldn't hurt. Plus I had an old package that I was going to toss anyway, so instead I threw a small amount at the base of a few plants. Have had a low-level EB situation going on for quite awhile. I have been spraying with milk/water. Although I try to be organic, I'm not married to the idea. I've been avoiding daconil mostly because all the effort that goes into spraying it. Covering head to toe, breathing mask. Face shield. IOW laziness. But I did give in now that the septoria has ravaged the Hawaiian currant seemingly overnight. That was 2 days ago and it has been rainy since. And tonight, the tropical storm remnants will strike and we are under severe flood warnings. It has been very, very dry, and tho the rain is welcome, not in such a deluge! ;o) As far as the wilt. I really can't believe that it is water logged soil. We haven't had that much rain and my moisture meter doesn't indicate that I'm overwatering. No other plants are showing signs of the wilt that struck the other 2 plants. The foliage has had a tad bit of EB on the very bottom, but no other color changes before it crashed. No ooze that I found, so I guess that eliminates the bacterial thought. Literally, overnight. Fine one day. Went out the next and one side of EOE was hanging draped over the bars of the cage. For example, you know how you notice a wilted branch, your heart pounds, and then you realize that somehow it had broken off the stem? It isn't wilt disease, the branch had just broken off. Well, that's what it looked like, except the whole stem was still firmly attached to the trunk with no cuts or abrassions in the stem. Both plants seemed a bit stunted in comparison to the other plants. The grape, initially, was pumping out the flowers and fruit, but a couple weeks ago, the flowers started decreasing and the amount of fruit appearing dropped way off. The EOE, was never really pumping out the flowers. It had a few flowers and 4 green tomatoes about the size of a ping pong ball. And it too seemed to stop doing much. Though the foliage seemed fine until it wilted. And 2 of the 4 toms developed black dots. I don't know--it just may be one of those things... The EOE was commercial seed and the Grape was a yearbook purchase. But thank you for your help! Christine

FWIW, Carolyn137 mentioned in another thread that a colleague says that some hybrid tomatoes with disease resistance can be successfully used as rootstock as well as Maxifort. She mentioned Celebrity but extended it to include some other tomato plants with hybrid disease resistance. So you can grow your own rootstock if you can't come by the standard Maxifort. The hybridizer I spoke with said they had tested Celebrity but there are other well known hybrids that have the same tolerances as noted by their variety names, as can be seen if one just looks at the TGS website/catalog, for instance. Big Beef is also VFFNTA, for instance.

The day they were planted it was 92 degrees, 93 the next day. This far north the sun is MUCH more intense in June/July, especially at higher elevations, than most areas south of the 45th parallel. Add in the lack of humidity, where the water vapor also serves to diffuse the suns rays, and some young plants seem to get irreversably sunscalded. I doubt any studies have been done specific to this situation, but it appears that intense heat/lighyt even before fruit set, can permanently damage a plant. I can only surmise it has something to do with damage to the growing point, just as happens with frost damage. Since I plant everything in a 24 hour period, I can only suppose certain varieties are more susceptible, as Kosovo, Anna Russian, and Gregori Altai were last year, and a couple others like Prudens Purple and Early Cascade in previous years. Its not really white cores. Sublethal sunscald causes yellow dry streaks that extend beyond the shoulders. At a more insidious level, I can't think of the technical terms, but the "shell" of the tomato between the skin and the gel, where there is like a vascular system, can be white with no flavor too, although it is perfectly red on the outside. If the other plants right alongside in the row with the afflicted variety have no such disorder, than the affected plant does not come back the next year.