I am no expert but ALL of my floribundas make shrubs and I let them grow inward as well. I do watch them, but I have some HUGE bushes going now that grow all which ways. I was under the impression that only Hybrid Teas needed to be watched for outward facing buds and even that I slack on to keep a full, healthy looking plant, but I do things that work for me and usually they go against what everyone else suggests. Here is my Hot Cocoa and my Sexy Rexy (which has tripled in size this year over last and needed a bigger pot) taken this morning, for reference:

If they are bending over in one direction you need to lighten that side so the growth on the other side pulls the tree more upright. I'd hire a professional arborist to do it right. Since the trees are still quite small it shouldn't cost that much.

ash, in our zone you don't have to do much protecting. But don't cut them back now, they are not dormant yet and will start to grow and could be damaged by a hard frost. Wait until we get a very hard frost and temps are consistently low at night and not too warm during the day, probably the beginning of December. Then cut back by 1/2, just to keep the canes from blowing around in winter storms. Sometime in February, you can do your spring pruning. My roses are still blooming, believe it or not.

A rose bush growing a robust current year's basal cane [generally a rich green...the greenest cane(s), on any given rose bush], is always a blessed event, gardening wise. The more new basal canes produced in a year the better as long as they are husky ones. One or two new basal canes a year is average, good progress development. Three or more new basals a year is robust growth, often charasteristic of a young bush. As a bush ages it produces fewer basals a year, even skipping a year by producing no new basals that year, only new lateral growth that year. Each variety of rose has a different basal cane production pattern. Some varieties are stingy with fresh basal production, especially roses that have narrow, tight crowns. These kinds of crowns are hard for basal canes to break through the dense wood of the crown in order to erupt and grow. Other varieties produce fresh basals liberally, especially varieties that have wide, open crowns. Wide, open crowns have more less dense places for fresh basals to emerge, the woody crown is not so thick and dense, but spread out, so the emerging canes don't have to fight so hard to break through. I believe own root roses have crowns that make it much easier for fresh basal canes to break forth. Grafted roses can produce crowns that are tightly packed and not spread out, making it more difficult for basals to emerge. I also believe own root roses have a longer life span, due in part to their broader crowns. Producing new basal canes is how a rose bush keeps growing, since annual ring production such as how trees and most shrubs grow is not exactly how roses grow. Roses grow from a woody crown that sends up basal canes that last a short number of years then become unproductive, and are replaced with new basal canes. A basal cane has a productive life of about 4 years. After that it produces weaker and weaker lateral growth and is replaced by the rose bush with a new basal cane. Basal canes increase in diameter every year they are in their most productive, early years, but they will eventually start declining in vigor and must be replaced with fresh, new, green basal canes. Only remove basal canes that are losing productivity as old age takes its toll on them. This state can be easily determined by looking at the laterals it produces. If the laterals are thin and spindly, it's time for removal. Depending on the age, vigor, and size of the bush, removing the oldest, unproductive basal cane every year or two will keep the bush in tip top productivity. It's a judgement call that has to be made, bush by bush, and basal cane by basal cane. I hope this helps you.