You have two competing issues here, so what you decide to risk is a judgement call. 1) Though Lilium Candidum is one of the few lilies that REQUIRES shallow planting, the bulb should be covered with soil. 2) The Madonna Lily doesn't like to be disturbed and may "sulk" for a season after transplanting. (But, at least you already know it is "happy" in this spot in your garden.) Solutions Top dressing with soil to cover the bulb by 1/2" allows you to satisfy both requirements but may require a raised bed. I don't like the idea of disturbing a sucessful bed of Candidum either but, IF a raised bed is out of the question, then a very careful digging and replanting deeper is probably the best long term solution. At 1/2" out of the soil, it won't take many freeze-thaw cycles this winter for the bulb to be heaved completely out of the soil. Assuming hungry squirrels didn't get it first. -Helen

Well-grown you should hope to see a few flowers the 2nd season after sowing seed. A well-drained spot is best, somewhat dry towards the end of summer (a plant from the mediterranean after all). If your climate is very hot a little shade keeps their foliage going for longer but I certainly remember clumps back in the UK which were in full sun. My experience of bought-in bulbs is that they are often only just at the edge of flowering size - no stem simply means too small a bulb in my opinion. The stress of lifting & selling (they have only a short dormancy which is why you'll see them sold earlier than the main run of lilies) can leave them sulking a season or two. Provided the bulb is still there (one advantage of shallow planting is that your finger can flick away the soil to see), patience is all that's required. The virus susceptibility is more of an issue. More virus-tolerant than one would like, so that they'll go on growing without actually turning-up their toes when infected (lots of the old clones wouldn't set seed & thus were propagated exclusively vegetatively so they obviously can survive a long time after infection). Most people suggest growing it as far away from other lilies as possible and starting with seed-raised (& hence virus-free) stock. You might think of regularly renewing them from seed or even growing a sacrificial plant of longiflorum within the clump to test for virus as McRae suggests. Best of Luck.

Unlike other lilies, lilium candidum needs to be planted very shallowly. The top of the bulb should be no more than 1.5" below the soil. Also, different from other lilies, candidum prefers alkaline soil. ************************************************************************* In the winter you should see a rosette of leaves appear. In the spring a stalk will emerge (and the rosette of leaves will die off). This was my second season. The first I only got the rosette. The second I got the rosette in the winter and a stalk (without flowering). I'm hoping this coming third season that the bulbs will have gotten large enough to flower. My understanding is that the bulbs available commercially are a little smaller than blooming size. Candidum is also resistant to virus and hence can act as a carrier. I'm also growing some candidum from seed that are doing quite well. They have very healthy rosettes now (I planted out tiny bublets last fall). They may even overtake the bulbs I bought. If so, I may ditch my bulbs if they don't perform well this spring. -Helen

My experience with L. candidum falls in with the above comments. As a 12 yo I was fascinated by this lily with its rosette during winter which suddenly burst forth in spring. Unfortunately the plants I watched belonged to an old lady across the street. Eventually I asked her for one and she gave me a bulb. In my ignorance I rushed home and planted it - just under the soil level. It grew very well for years. I was also lucky as the part of country Victoria I lived in was heavy clay soil with a high pH. I too never heard of this lily for many years. I discovered a source of seed at chilternseeds.co.uk They were happy to sell me some and they arrived safely through the legitimate channel. They are quite easy to manage. They are immediate epigeal and these seed I obtained had a high rate of success. They can be sown at any time of the year theoretically though don't try in summer. If sown in August they will put up a flower a bit over 2 years later. Better the following year. Mine have finished this year and all have many fat pods. I took no care with them when in flower. So do I have new seed 100% L. candidum? Or is it likely to be contaminated? Some lilium species breed true.... not sure about this one though.