WRF: I am now only planning on Kate's (Solstice's) here in Orlando. Are you coming for that one? It is Oct 20 or something close to that. I am having some GW's stay for a slumber party and garden tours the next day so you could come too! I think Veronca's must be the Tampa swap this comiung weekend? I am not planning on that. When / where is Ricky's? I am interested in the trade. I would also like to talk to you off line about brugs in FL. I see from your trade list (boy do I want to see your garden!) that you have a bunch of brugs that have died on you. What gives? That happens to me too. I can have a healthy plant right next to one that goes belly up that are from the exact same stock! And some varieties just never go for me. aI usually lose them in the heat of summer. They just sort of shrivel up and go limp and yellow. Is that what happens to you? And also why are you pulling yours up? Is that what you do at the end of the season or something? I am pretty new to brugs. Be curious to know and let me know about the Orlando swap too. Anita

i am interested in getting budwood of smooth prince and the thornless pink cut flower that you have. i would be able to trade yellow buttercup thornless,pinkie thornless,a almost thornless dark red cut flower that i got from cut flowers and sutters gold that i just bought. um and zephrion druin and sweet honey i think it is called also thornless.

zone is simply predicted low winter temp on the coldest day ... big city name would be more helpful ... the heat is making the flowers fade too fast.. and there isnt much you are going to do about that ... and fragrance is variable .... [my most fragrant flowers were the last of the season in mid to late fall ... and the flowers lasted a very long time because of how cold it was in my MI] .... i dont understand if you see burn on flowers or leaves .. if flowers.. its just the heat on very tender petals ... not much difference if you got a bad storm.. and rain beat up the flowers .. imo.. thats one heck of a plant.. though you are frustrated with the flower show ... you still ought to be doing the happy dance on the vigor of the plant alone ... mine never got that big .... ken

If you faithfully maintain a spray program for insect and disease, especially for black spot, you can successfully grow the roses you named. It is not easy to faithfully maintain a spray program. Miss a scheduled spray, and the consequences can be very disheartening. Find an organic fungicide/insecticide that works for you. This is only accomplished through trial and error, and you will have good success with your roses, and in the process, NOT expose yourself, loved ones, and the environment to dangerous, life threatening chemicals. Had you chosen varieties of roses that have been bred for disease resistance, you could have at least eliminated the necessity of spraying fungicides. Then for insects, which rose breeding has not yet advanced to the level of insect proof varieties, you can chose an organic insecticide that works for you, thereby minimizing work and handling dangerous, toxic chemicals. I know I do not sound too encouraging and I'm sorry for that, but growing roses is not exactly a 'walk through the park.'. The named variety we chose to grow is extremely critical for success. Love, Double Delight, and Queen Elizabeth (horrible disease buckets), are older varieties that were introduced to commerce back then when spraying was considered a necessary element of growing roses successfully, and was understood as part of the rose growing scene. Nowadays, no spray roses, at least for diseases, are many and readily available. Only in places, mostly those having low rainfall and humidity, and where rose diseases are few or of little significance, can just about any variety of rose be grown without intense spraying. Moses