Try raking the lawn and remove the dead material. Work first one way....say, east to west, then the opposite. Use a fan rake and use as much weight on it as you see fit to open furrows where overseeding can be done. If you prefer, put down a 1/2" layer of compost or good topsoil prior to overseeding. If the weeds are really dead, then they are not growing and will offer no barrier to new grass coming in. Soon the grass will push out the dead material. Then put your lawn on a schedule of proper fertilizing for the type of grass you have. The happier, and more lush the lawn gets, the less chance it can be adversely affected by weeds. To that, put your lawn on an routine of topdressing 1/2" and over seeding--whether it shows whether it needs it or not at least annually. For the type of grass you have mow at the correct height. You may wish to leave the grass a bit higher, for a time anyway while it also helps prevent weeds by shading the weed seeds that may be there from last fall. A further pre-emergent application can also prevent these weed seeds developing somewhat. There's always some that make it.

yes if you have had wet weather then you have stem rot and nothing can be done now. best to start new seeds or try to root some branches. look carefully inside the branches and see if the rot has got to that spot yet. with rot it will die. you need a rot free piece of stem to survive. Serenade can be found on the internet. There is no substitute. It is a living organism that eats bacteria and spores. it is organic. I guess I thought the copper was not organic. maybe it washes off. But all the fungus stuff has to be stopped before it grows. Once it gets going you can not really kill it any more. You can stop new growth of fungus but not the old growth. If you have a quick harvest then fight it for awhile. if no harvest soon then let this plant go and maybe do some preventive on the healthy plants. If you have this problem on more years then best to grow under an umbrella. build a structure to hold a plastic sheet above and remove it and put up before it rains. keep the plants dry. leave the sides open so fresh air can flow through under the umbrella. if you have a light weight wire fencing you might put that above the structure so it will help keep the sheet plastic from caving in when it rains. you need some slope for the rain to run off and might need to make holes in the umbrella to allow the water to drain off. maybe you can get construction plastic sheeting 20 ft wide by 100 ft long. make the structure a little less than 25 foot long and get 3 pieces from the sheeting. or less than 25 foot and get 4 pieces. if you only use it when needed, you can get the sheeting to last a few years. mostly it will tear up on the wire fencing and from cutting holes to drain the rain. try to make a better slope so the rain runs off better. You can email me if you have questions. If you have a garden by a barn and attach the umbrella to the barn it will help a lot to give it a solid structure. avoid rain coming off the barn roof. even though the plants are under the umbrella you will still need to spray to kill off the fungus. it fills the air. no way to get away from it. You might avoid the wet season by growing only in the dry season. you might consider the wet season like we do the frozen winter. we just let them mostly die and start over next spring. stronger peroxide kills faster almost any dilution will work. do a little experimentation. the stronger stuff will look like it works on heavy mold but it comes right back. if you do it early to kill the spores then dilute should work also. you want to do a quick spray if there is morning dew on the plants. the rain will wash it off but the spores will be dead. We get only 3% hydrogen peroxide. that works pretty good and even that can be diluted down. Hard to say what to use. you have to experiment. I think of the fungus like a mushroom. when you see the mushroom come out of the ground you can pick it or kill it but the roots down below stay alive and come right back. it is impossible to kill the roots down below. Strong HP can eat up the mushoom cap but it will not kill the roots. You must prevent the problem from happening. I would just plant some new seeds and the bad weather will change and the new plants will do well again. Good Luck email me if you have questions or post them here. I will check back.

Hi, Your raspberry patch seems to have gone way out of hand, and they tend to do that if you do not remove the suckers and grow them in rows. If you want to keep them, I guess you will have to clean up around them and remove and plant some of the suckers in adjacent rows. The extras also make excellent gifts! Once you've got them in rows, you'll find it so much easier to look after them, pick the fruit, cut down old stems, weed, etc. So go for it, and you can look forward to a bumper crop next year.

There are several varieties of Asclepias tuberosa, yet they are all usually sold as simply A. tuberosa. There are perhaps 5 or more tuberosa entities that don't match any known varieties and are currently being studied. Your best move would be to collect seeds of the wild plant that you like, or have that wild plant identified, so you can search for seeds of that same variety of Asclepias tuberosa. Most Asclepias tuberosa is sold as A. tuberosa with no information about which variety it is. Venders that are more knowledgable would know what variety they offer.