thyme - definitely remove the seedheads from the big tulips and daffodils as soon as you see them start to form - actually, as soon as the tulips drop their petals and the daffodil flowers start to fade, I cut the flowerstalk down to the base. It reduces the 'mess' factor considerably by not having that dead-straight yellowing stalk poking up. It's easier to hide the basal leaves among other plants than it is to try to hide that stalk! But the small 'botanical' tulips and dwarf type daffodils should be allowed to set seed because most of those will spread nicely from seed without as much weakening of the 'mother' bulb - or at least the seedlings get to flowering size before the 'mother' bulb wears out. Judy - tulips are usually recommended to be planted about 6" deep - I aim for 8" in heavier soil and 10" or more in lighter soil (which I don't have!) In your climate, I'd think planting deep would increase their odds of returning for more years. Another important factor I think is to not water where they are too much during their dormant period. I don't think they like that. So make sure any companion perennials are not water-hogs that you need to provide a lot of supplemental water to in the summer. If I know I want to divide or move a clump, I wait until the foliage is ready to be removed and do it then (usually early July here). I that is not good timing (e.g. because I have to move/lift the companion perennial too and it's not a good time to disturb that plant...) I just mark where the bulbs are, either by leaving a bit of the old stems showing or put a few sticks in the ground or something like that... Then I can find them easily again when the time is right to move them. When we dig them, we start the hole back from the edge of where we've marked the bulb location. We know how deep them are, so it's fairly easy to dig them up without too much risk of damage.

Sorry I don't have that thorny one. I have a couple of dwarf ones in pots, I grow standards, weeping standards, bushy ones, round shaped ones in different sizes, up against trees mind you I don't let them grow any higher than I can reach on a stepladder other wise I would have to get hubby to prune and I wont let him near any of my bougs or roses except two pillar roses as I cannot prune them anymore on top of a small arch, he is very heavy handed with the secateurs, if you put your email address in your members page so I can see it I will send you the link to my photobucket album so you can see some pics as there are too many to post here. Cheers...Misty

If you go to the Mitre 10 site (you will have to register), they have a very good and detailed page, with illustrations, called "Grow Plants from Garden Cuttings". It covers plants in general (and potting medium, etc.) - but does tell you that camellias will strike from heel or tip cuttings. Or go to the page below and go to the bottom of the page. Now, neither of these sites say "when" is the best time. I've had some success with cuttings (and many more failures). I think that late summer/early autumn might be the right time - but I take cuttings whenever I get a chance and it's pot luck. Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.greengold.com.au/greengold/CARENOTES/CARENOTES/camellia.htm

I have some Cover Blubbers, but I got mold on a couple of them and it didn't come off. The company replaced them, which is awesome (I was just informing them, when I told them, not expecting anything from it except maybe tips for cleaning the mold), but I'm really careful about what I use them for now. They're fantastic, even given the limitations. The harder kinds might be less prone to having mold stick. My answer of what I do is the same for only a slice removed, though that might not have been clear--and it might not work for you, or how you want to store things, but just to be clear: I use plastic wrap, and put it right up against the flesh, which means, pushing into the wedge area that has been cut out. If it needs help staying in place, I'll wrap another piece over it, but I always leave half the melon free, especially a cantaloupe, so the rind can breathe. Works for me. :)