They're real sun lovers. Do you have them in full sun? I know that mine planted in the shadier areas of my garden don't bloom as profusely. Also, by coincidence I just read somewhere, can't remember where, that overfeeding pelargoniums (annual geranium)can result in lots of foliage but no blooms. Pam

Rozanne always droops for me after a move - even if I haven't split it up. I would expect her to perk up in a day or two. I wouldn't overwater her, one good drink at transplanting time and wait. Expect her to need some supplemental watering for awhile after transplanting, but be cautious, don't water much unless it gets hot which is not the case here at this time. I also never fertilize when moving things, although I may improve the soil some, or in the case of some things that don't like heavy rich soil, thin it down some with gravel or Profile. As for the campanulas I can't help you much. They generally hate my wettish yard. Are your campanulas large nursery plants? These are usually much bigger than home grown in the garden plants at this time of the year. Did you acclimate them to the outdoors for a week or so before planting them out? We're still pretty cold here at night, and although the perennials are cold hardy, if they have been sitting inside or partially inside in a protected area of the nursery, they can take a hit when abruptly moved outside into the cold. Bigger plants & plants in bloom often look awful after transplanting. They may take some time to adjust. Just thoughts, don't know if they fit or not. Again, I would wait & see for awhile. Don't panic. It's still very early in the season. Best wishes.

Your grandmother has the right idea for her locality..cold, northern Iowa. Us northern folks get the wrong idea about southern locales; New Mexico suggests warm weather when approaching January....in California January is the month they plant so naturally..... You can keep your geranium going with the amount of sun you have as long as possible...but as soon as it wilts, cut it back to about 4", remove any old leaves and bloom, any weak or damaged stems or branches; re-plant in a fresh pot with fresh potting soil or potting mix. Put something in the pot between the soil and the drainage holes. Put it in the best sunny window you can...south or west is best and water to drainage. No more water until the new leaves form, then water only as the plant needs it. Do not fertilize until well along in foliage. Normally, up north we bring our geraniums out by the Ides of March..(15th) and do the same thing. We suspect New Mexico will have better sun pretty soon. Its all up to the sun....its still low but getting better every day. Turn the plant every day or so to ensure all parts get equal sun. When you water, always water to drainage, then dump the excess in the saucer. Let it dry down somewhat between waterings. Within 2 weeks you will have a fresh measure of leaves and more each day. It will bloom later when the sun is better.

The Promix BX is the best soilless mix for anything from starting seeds to growing plants. It's the only thing I use for all my plants. I agree that your geraniums were being kept too wet. Geraniums definitely don't like wet feet and like to dry out between watering. Yes you can fertilize with water soluable fertilizer. Every 3 weeks is good for geraniums. Geraniums can be started from seed or cuttings, but not the seed your geraniums make. They are hybrids and will not come true from their seed. Besides it takes too long for them to make seed and you would cut out your flower production for this summer. Better to buy seed, but they take a long time to grow into a flowering plant-from January to June-July, so unless you have a light set up or some where to grow them concentrate on cuttings. Geraniums are actually tender perennials and can be wintered over. If you have a cold cellar they can be set in there and forgotten until spring or you can grow them on a south or west facing window sill. The latter is how I do mine, then I can take cuttings when the branches get too long. I keep them trimmed back and don't allow them to flower. I give them almost no fertilizer and let them dry between waterings. Here's how to take cuttings TAKING GERANIUM CUTTINGS First you must make sure everything you use is very clean. Take your cuttings: With a sharp knife or razor blade cut a 4 or 5 inch piece from the growing tip, cutting just below a leaf. All roots and branches come from a leaf joint. Remove all but the top 3 or 4 leaves. Let your cuttings callus over--Lay them out somewhere on newspaper. Mine sit on my spare room floor. Let them sit for about 5 days. The leaves will look wilted and dead but they're not. The cut end will shrivel and dry. Letting them callus over and watching the water cuts down on blackleg a deadly fungal disease especially to cuttings. Now plant your cuttings. In a clean pail mix your Pro mix with the water so you make sure the soil is damp right through. You want the soil wet but not too wet. Squeeze a handful and some moisture should come out but not a lot. Fill your pots and make a little hole in the center with your finger or something else that will make a small hole. Dip about 1/2 inch of the cut end in rooting hormone. It comes in powder or gel, either is OK as long as it's for soft wood cuttings. I use Stim-root NO. 1. After it's dipped put it in the hole and cover it in, and you're done. Keep the soil moist but not overly wet. They will look wilted at first but that will change as it starts to grow roots. You will know it's rooted when it starts to show new growth. If you are going to plant it outside right away, wait until it is rooted well before you set it out.