Personally, just the mention of Dr Phil Callahan is two strikes against you, kimmsr. I used to think you were a smart guy (heh, heh). But really, I think Callahan had some wrong ideas. This is not to say that his suggestions were not worthwhile, I'm saying that his reasoning as to why they worked was incorrect. I don't know what the answer is, but I'm convinced he doesn't either. I'm not familiar with the others you mentioned but one with the book is up on my browser. I just need to find time (maybe after taxes). Generally I agree with kimmsr that healthy soil is necessary for healthy plants. If you don't have healthy soil, you are fighting an uphill battle. I've lived in Riverside, Downey, Hawthorne, and Pomona. When I lived in Hawthorne (1975-1979), there were still agricultural fields in Torrance back by the malls. Bet those are gone now!! But any of the soils in any of those places would be vastly improved with alfalfa pellets or corn meal applications. Simply stopping the use of chemicals for control of fungus, weeds, and insects goes most of the way toward good soil health. Proper watering, mulching or mowing the grass tall, and organic fertilizer is all you should need after that. And kimmsr will say you don't need the fertilizer. That may be a goal, but I continue to need it to get the dark green in the grass and fruit on my lemon.

There is mounting scientific evidence that the use of compost tea can help suppress some diseases and insects that affect plants. When looking for real evidence on compost tea, or any other product that you have heard about don't forget that Google has a feature under the more button at the top called scholar. If you use this feature you can filter out the sales pitches and read the science. Here is an overview of what I know and have learned about compost tea. Compost tea is not a miracle cure for all diseases or pests. Evidence does show that it can suppress certain diseases, insects, even root nematodes and possibly within an acceptable level in some cases. Most fungi infect plants when the leaves are very young and vulnerable so applying compost tea, or for that mater any chemical control, after the symptoms are seen is usually not going to give you any control. Even if compost tea does not give you the desired control, it can do no harm and will supply your plants with nutrients. Compost tea seems to work better the fresher it is. There is still a great deal of research to be done on compost tea to determine how it works, on what, timing of application, production methods, how to keep it from loosing its potency over time, and a lot more. By all means add compost tea to your arsenal of things you use to protect your plants under an integrated pest management approach, but don't expect it to cure all that ails. Remember that healthy plants can grow and produce fruit with a variety of diseases and insects, depending on the pest and the level of infestation. There are also new organic fungicides such as Actinovate that use beneficial bacteria to control fungi that are showing promise, but the jury is still out on how good they are. Again do your Google scholar research on these. Also Oil(Neem or Horticultural), Soap, Bt, and Spinosad, for insect control are all accepted as organic.

I have about 45 raised beds in the kitchen garden. Many are covered with multi layers of paper and topped with lots of spoiled hay as mulch. Crickets are every where, and then some. Never have i seen evidence of them eating into peppers or any other vegies here. I would also guess that they hide out in peppers, thru holes made by others. They feed on all kinds of organic matter, but as to plants - seems limited to seedlings. I would like to identify a pest that makes holes in my peppers - about 1/2 to 3/4" long larvae - black with orangeish markings up and down the body.. Those DO make holes. They crawl quite fast on my cutting board when i cut the peppers to process them. Any ideas? Glad

Well spoken, Rina. I try very hard NOT to spray fertilizers on foliage. Nor do I water foliage, if it can be avoided. Granted, in nature plants get wet; it's unavoidable. I don't do it because I don't like the white mineral deposits or water spots on my foliage. I have also had crown rot from water sitting on the meristem of my Haworthia and rotting out the growth point. Watering foliage of many Echeveria will wash away the protective glaucous coating. I DO spray insecticides/fungicides on foliage as well as soaking the soil. I usually add some liquid soap to make it more "wet". This helps when dealing with mealy bug.