I agree with theforgottenone: they key is to fully wet your soil mix before putting it in the pot. If the mix contains a lot of peat (which most store bought mixes do), you can put it in a large container and pour very hot water over it. Allow it to cool, stir it up well and then drain away the excess water before filling your seed pots. Starting from seed is more difficult than many people imagine. Seeds need just the right amount of light, moisture, warmth and humidity, as well as suitable growing media in a not too deep container. There's a short overview of how to do it at the link below from the Growing from Seed Forum FAQ. Here is a link that might be useful: How to get started growing from seed

'Cedar' is a generic term that is used to refer to several types of trees, most of which are not true cedars (Cedrus species) at all. On the west coast, 'cedar' most likely refers to Western red cedar, Thuja plicata. In other parts of the country, 'cedar' usually refers to some sort of native juniper. Both contain a lot of essential oils that repel insects, primarily by smell. But neither type repel ALL insects. Mollusks - like snails and slugs - are not typically affected, although their presence may be reduced to some extent just because they are not inclined to creep over the rough surface. However, I would not rely on ANY type of cedar mulch to deter slugs/snails -- you need to bait for these types of garden pests. Insects that will be deterred are some types of ants, cockroaches, termites, fleas, moths, some varieties of flies. Cedar wood chips (either type) are often used as pet bedding because of this property. Also some desirable garden inhabitants, like butterflies, will avoid cedar. But other insect pests will find either type of cedar a welcome habitat, as they will burrow and live in the moist, dark recesses of the thick mulch layer and feed on the decomposing wood. These includes earwigs, vine weevils, pill or sowbugs (roly polys) and various beetles. Western red cedar is a valuable timber tree with very durable, long-lasting wood. Western red cedar mulch is a by-product of this industry but still tends to be pricey. Eastern red cedar is a weed tree and mulches made of this type of wood tend to be rather inexpensive.

That cedar mulch would not even keep away moths, although they may not roost overnight right in it. The cedar odor will diminish soon in an outdoor application, especially when the rose garden is watered repeatedly. Aromatic cedar for boxes and closets may not even come from the same tree species as "cedar" mulch. I have seen butterflies basking on cedar chips in my garden pathways.

greetings from Australia, home of the water repellent soil. Wetting agents (detergents and other surfactants), such as you've tried, will only increase infiltration for a few months or until the soil fully dries out again. The water repellence will return with a vengeance. Addition of organic matter, especially eucalyptus mulch or potting mixes/soils will only increase the water repellence over time as the water repellence is due to the sand particles being coated with waxy/fatty materials produced by the natural breakdown of organic matter. best longer term solutions are: 1. always create a basin of soil (like a small well) around plants, especially on slopes, to hold the water you apply. If water is held over water repellent soils for long enough the water repellency reverts and the water runs in(can take from a few minutes up to several hours in the worst cases) 2. addition of clay to the soil when you plant can also provide long term benefits (e.g. builders clay) as clay, having much smaller particles, has a much greater surface area and so is a lot less prone to becoming fully coated and water repellent. Addition rates need to be about 10kg (22lb) per square metre (or sq. yd) dug into the top 100mm (4") of soil 3. consider pebble mulches over organic ones, as they help retain a moister environment at the soil surface and help retard runoff without adding extra organic matter. Remember the soils where these plants naturally occur contain almost no organic matter. 4. The main force acting on water in and out of the soil is gravity. Water applied to slopes will almost always runoff unless you create areas that can hold it until it can infiltrate. This may include pockets, depressions, mounds along contours, even shallow depressions above plants, larger rocks placed below plants, etc. This will in turn waste a lot less water too. good luck steve