My memory is a little hazy... I sure think somebody (probably more than one, probably more than once) tried to tc Gunther's Prize... but I think it failed. I might have dreamed that, but I think that's what happened. The stabilization notes are interesting. From the pictures, I guess it is possible that the two streakers have two different and distinct sets of green genes... with GP having darker green to work with than Blizzard. I'd guess the all green stabile version would look something like the all green sport of S&S - Vim and Vigor. V&V, btw is remarkably undistinguished... like a family of geniuses had a kid whose goal was to become an auto detailer... I'm still not quite convinced the stabilizing is quite as simple and cut-and-dried as that... I've had all yellow stable eyes off Blizzard, as well as the apple green with yellow to cream margins - Winter Snow... but I've also tried to foster a part of the crown that looks like it might want to be light centered, dark margined. It is surprising that there are so many g/y S&S sports and so few y/g ones... in many yellow plants, the first sport we find is the one with a dark edge. I think the only one of the S&S y/g I grow is Sum and Subtle, and I've only had it a few years...

Proudgm, you can save any pics to there, if it's in PB already then there is a link that says "copy to my album" and it will put it there. As far as other sites, I know there is a way to upload them to PB from your album, I think you would just put the web address in it, I've never done it before. Also as Tracy pointed out above: Vic, one thing I would like to add about setting up your own photobucket account is that you can create your own folders for it too. I have several different sub albums in my account for family pics, garden shots, then sub albums for each of my individual gardens, clematis, lilies, daylilies and then keep a separate album for all web art I find that I want to use again or edit/personalize. I like keeping them separated so if I do a search I can find what I'm looking for pretty quickly. It is a pretty neat site and they just recently expanded some of their editing tools so you can add comments and funny designs to the pictures too. I've started part 3 so we don't have to wear our mouses out scrolling the page : )

Where are you? What zone? How long have they been in the ground? How are you caring for them? #1, when you first plant a tree, it spends the first year mostly making roots and getting established. The rule of thumb for all perennials, trees included, is that they sleep the first year (making roots, not putting out too much top growth), creep the second year and leap the third year. #2, in this heat, some plants tend to go into what we call "summer dormancy," where they stop growing altogether. This is to conserve their energy, just like plants wilt to conserve water. I don't know when your trees were planted, but it's best to plant tree in the fall (October is the month of choice), so they have a chance to grow roots and get established over the winter so they are strong and ready to grow in the spring and summer. It's not unusual at all for plants planted in the summer to not grow.

The form of N and the fate of N in the soil-plant system is probably the major driver of changes in soil pH in agricultural systems. Nitrogen can be added to soils in many forms, but the predominant forms of fertilizer N used are urea (CO(NH2)2), monoammonium phosphate (NH4H2PO4), diammonium phosphate ((NH4)2HPO4), ammonium nitrate (NH4NO3), calcium ammonium nitrate (CaCO3+NH4(NO3)) ammonium sulfate ((NH4)2SO4), urea ammonium nitrate (a mixture of urea and ammonium nitrate) and ammonium polyphosphate ([NH4PO3]n). The key molecules of N in terms of changes in soil pH are the uncharged urea molecule ([CO(NH2)2]0), the cation ammonium (NH4+) and the anion nitrate (NO3-). The conversion of N from one form to the other involves the generation or consumption of acidity, , and the uptake of urea, ammonium or nitrate by plants will also affect acidity of soil. Ammonium-based fertilizers will acidify soil as they generate two H+ions for each ammonium molecule nitrified to nitrate. The extent of acidification depends on whether the nitrate produced from ammonium is leached or is taken up by plants. If nitrate is taken up by plants the net acidification per molecule of ammonium is halved compared to the scenario when nitrate is leached. Bottom line, there is a whole lot of chemistry going on that isn't obvious on the label.