At our old house, Old Blush bloomed in flushes. With several of them, it should always be in bloom. It starts blooming early and continues repeating very late into the season -- often the first and last rose (of only a dozen) to be in bloom, as late as December depending on how many good freezes we got. It did get BS a few times, but it just dropped the leaves and put out new ones. There was a gorgeous picture of a row of Old Blush along a fence in an old Antique Rose Emporium catalog, which was why I got it. Somehow, I wasn't as impressed with the real thing, but pictures are usually taken at peak performance. I've always wanted to plant a long row of them, but I don't have the space. :(

Thanks everyone for your help. Buford, your Iceberg looks so graceful on the wall. I can only hope that mine will look 1/2 as good. I'm still a little unclear as to how the climbers get shaped..it looks like you might be trimming back the canes so as not to grow over the window? Or do you just let them grow at will? And what kind of wire are you using...it must have to be very strong...I have searched and searched the web and several rose books for specific answers on training climbing roses against fences and walls. I'm amazed at how little information I can find.

I have become convinced that ND is not suitable for an arbour unless you combine it with a swag and then diligently train the canes onto the swag. In late July we will be cutting our ND back completely, to the top of the arbour and starting over, swagging every cane of a suitable size from the begining. The consensus of rose folks seems to be that ND will survive the treatment. We didn't start swagging our ND until there was already a thick accumulation of canes on the top of the arbour and dangerous tentacles reaching out everywhere - those thorns are NASTY! Even with the swag, the volume on top of the arbour has grown, because it's not easy to work with the stuff up there because of the thick tangle of older canes - not to mention at least three different clematises... I am concerned at this point that ND will bring down the arbour/south alley gate if we don't do something about it! So it's time to clear the slate an start again. My advice is only go for it if you've got an appropriate set-up to control it and are willing to be diligent in controlling it (which we weren't for the first few years, and then it was too late...) Given our experience I really think the appropriate place for ND is trained along a relatively low fence (4' or so); tie it in to the fence as if the fence was a swag. A low fence would make it easy to work with it - as opposed to needing a stepladder in the case of an arbour. Good luck.

https://www.houzz.com/photos/garden-spaces-traditional-landscape-new-york-phvw-vp~3417617 That photo has been shown several times as the classic white picket fence with pink (Heritage) roses. https://www.houzz.com/photos/family-pool-traditional-landscape-manchester-phvw-vp~100429 There is another beautiful bed with a white picket fence. I would take the person's advice and not wind the roses through the fence as it does make it a problem for pruning. I have had my vinyl fence for probably 10 years and it never needs anything done to it other than a good scrubbing in the spring. A small shrub rose planted in intervals would work great. Roses can sometimes have "naked knees" during the summer months so planting other plants around them will help to hide those times. Another pretty rose would be Pretty Jessica or if you want a deeper pink/red, Munstead Wood also would work (I think--I am in a very different plant zone than you are). This is Munstead looking rather pink on that hot summer day. In cooler weather he is almost a velvet deep burgandy red. A very young Pretty Jessica--not the best picture of her