I bought these too this year - mine say to plant after the frost Jan-May. And I did read you had to pull them up in the fall.

Hello, How are these in your garden? Did you have to dig them up and store them for the winter? I had dahlias that stayed in the ground this past winter (which I thought was pretty cold) and they came back fine. Did you plant these in the spring or fall? Thanks in advance for your info/experience. Anita

Each of the bulbs you've mentioned actually does most of its leaf-growing over winter. They commence flowering in mid to late spring. They need a good dryish period after that and then go dormant over the summer. Babianas need to be planted fairly deeply - more than you'd think from it's dainty size. 3-4", but they can drop themselves down over the season if you've provided a deep enough container. Each of them requires free-draining soil - and they all grow/flower in pots. The Ixias resent having a lot of rain over their growing seasn and respond with tatty leaves and spots on the flowers so under shelter is probably best. Ensure you have some sort of leaf-support system in the pot because they grow anywhere between 14-24"+ and are prone to flopping in the wind. They open their flowers on sunny days and stay closed on the dull ones. Tritonia (in my garden) flowers with and after the main Ixia flush - coming out with the blue, green, and white varieties. They're hardier than Freesias. All of them will take 1-2 degrees of frost but look askance at any freeze that's not gone before lunchtime. You mentioned that you moved the Tritonia in the autumn. You might want to bring in the whole pot and water/lightly feed over winter while giving frost protection. Usually I leave the bulbs/corms in the pots over the summer so they get a baking but don't actually dry out to the point of becoming soft to touch. They all get sorted out in autumn - spawn potted up for growing on and the flowering sizes potted up/labelled. My reasons for keeping in pots are: I can choose the bigger 'bulbs' to get reliable flowering; and I can ensure they don't proliferate in the garden (a zone 9 problem...) Bright sunlight for all of them. If you have a shelted spot near a brick wall, soil with excellent drainage, you might want to try outdoors; otherwise, in pots, in a glasshouse or similar where the temperatures stay above freezing mostly, watered over the winter - it's probably worth another go.

Apologies for the lateness of this message. Was busy for quite a while, not tuned in. I do agree w/ the above message from Greenwitch re. drainage. I've grown Ixias in pots for 20 yrs, in Central Coast Calif. & No. Cal. climates. In the fall I place about 20 corms on top of planting mix in a med. to lg. pot, cover w/ about 1" of soil mix ,place in a protected spot & water during the winter if we have a dry spell. In Oregon you'll have to find a frost protected spot & not allow them to remain soaked. Have a conservatory or protected place under the eaves? that should work, covered w/ a fluffy mulch like pine needles or something. Foliage (spearlike) begins to emerge in spring (remove the mulch) after Dutch bulbs have bloomed. I water during bloom & fertilize sparingly. They like a warm spot, so place near a west or south wall. I use the cut blooms inside for arrangements - great colors. When foliage browns & looks tacky, move pot to storage area, (move to garage or shed?) in protected area out of rain or sprinklers. allow to dry thoroughly. Cut foliage back to ground when totally brown. In the fall, bring them out & begin watering. Easy, easy, they'll bloom for years this way. Ixias are wonderful additions to my front entry, fun & uncommon.