I must not have been very clear. Buffalo grass is a native grass in my area. It is mixed in with other grasses in pastures and prairie throughout the natural landscape. As our lot currently stands, the weeds (mostly tumbleweeds) have taken over any good prairie grass that is there. We are not planting the 3 acres to lawn, we are planting buffalo grass, which is something we can keep maintained, is native and does not need watered. We are planting over 150 trees and shrubs and plan on introducing a variety of planting beds throughout the property with native wildflowers and ornamental grasses. I feel like we are improving our landscape in a very responsible way and am simply asking for help doing this correctly. Our lot is across from a golf course and although it is in the country (our lot backs a pasture for grazing cattle and circle of corn) it does have to have the look of a manicured area. I frankly feel that people in this area are very good at removing invasive, although "native" weeds that cause a nuisance not only in the way the look but in the amount of water they suck from the ground, and therefore taking over the native grasses. People here plant buffalo grass, keep it mowed and don't water it, which is what we would like to do. Thank you all for your help.

I would first cut the plants down with the mower. Then, if you live in an area with lots of fall leaves, I'd mulch with leaves. lots of 'em. I usully put at least a two foot thick layer of whole fallen leaves first to smother the grass and weeds, then add another two foot layer of leaves I have run over with my mower a couple of times to chop them up and make them stay put a little longer in the wind - chopping also makes then look a little neater. If it is breezy wet the leaves after you spread them to keep them in place. If you add enough leaves - and it will take a lot - you can smother anything. The leaves will decompose and be a great soil additive by next summer. You might want to repeat the treatment next fall if there are woody plants or really tough grasses you're trying to get rid of. There is no such thing as adding too many leaves as long as you are willing to wait for them to break down. If you get impatient it is not hard to rake off some of the leaves after they have done their job of smothering the plants. I would definitely not add any "erosion control" fabric or weed control cloth or anything like that. In my experience those things eventually get weeds growing through them - often the weeds start above and send roots down through the fabric - and them they become a nightmare to remove. No such problem with fall leaves. I find adding a layer of newspaper underneath to be unnecessary and not as easy as it sounds - I usually end up with gaps between the paper. Also, too much newspaper can break down slowly and be a pain when you try to turn the bed in a year or two.

Can not really see what you mean from the pictures. Have you aksed the people at your local office of your Pennsylvania State Universtiy Cooperative Extension Service what that might be? Here is a link that might be useful: PSU CES

The top picture looks like wild onion and the bottom picture looks like Star of Bethlehem to me. Remember there are probably different subspecies of each. Either way its a bulbous plant and recognized as difficult to control. So treat it with an herbicide while its actively growing. In this case, "actively growing" means treat it in late winter and/or early spring. "difficult to control" means treat it with a herbicide then treat it again after two weeks If you do not like herbicides, vinegar is supposed to kill top growth down to the roots. It will grow back so you have to keep treating it with vinegar till it loses all its energy reserves and the root dies. Again, more difficult with a bulbous root plant. Also there are oil based herbicides on the market now that use clover oil and other oils. Though you should read the label to make sure it works on bulbous weeds such as wild onions. Else hand pulling is an option