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Gardening in Oz

Monstera cuttings

20 years ago

Hi. I am a novice gardener cleaning up the backyard. We have a large monstera plant which has taken over an area in the backyard. I would like to cut off some of the end bit and the stalk (which is about 2-3 inches thick) and place it in a pot to try and control it. Has anyone had any success with this method? Has anyone got any hints on controlling the plant as I am aware it can become quite rampant both in the pot and in the yard.

Many thanks.

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Comments (3)

sunshine_qld
20 years ago
Hi danann
I don't know how it would go in a pot but to control the plant, just cut it back to size every couple of years.
Monstera is yummy with icecream.
gardenlen
20 years ago
g'day danann,

easy to grow from cutting just cut app' 6" length from tip end and stick app 1/3 of it in potting mix and water. not sure you will get any fruit from it in a pot though. might only ever be a nice foliage plant as a pot culture.

as for the big plant yeh just hack it back it will sprout on and bare fruit best time to hack it back maybe after it has fruited? if you have a shredder put the off cuts through the shredder and out them into the garden.

len

Here is a link that might be useful: lens garden page
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I would get it out of the water, rinse it off really well. Cut off anything thats mushy. Get some powdered rooting hormone (Rootone is usually available at home depo, lowes etc. that has a fungicide in it) Dust the cut parts in the hormone. Put it in potting soil with a lot of perlite added. Place it in a smaller pot with good drainage holes. Put it under a plant light. Keep it well watered but dont let the pot sit in water.
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Haroldine, you misread my comment. I said "...it doesn't NEED a side node to grow". Regarding the side node, some are flat and hard to see, others are "born" slightly raised. I think I see the node in the top pic of the two Nicole took with her camera, a white area just above that dark dot. That said, and again, this cutting will grow from the tip, not a side node. It would be highly unusual for a side node next to the growing tip to become swollen and produce another lead, especially in monsteras which are not prone to branch spontaneously like some philodendrons and other aroids. I agree with you that a cutting without aerials takes much longer to root than one without them. In my experience they usually produce roots, then leaves, but not always if the cutting is vigorous and in ideal humidity, temp, etc. This cutting already has a leaf that will make energy. Leaves of some plants readily root and produce plants, within aroids, the tuberous types come to mind. Other genera are highly reluctant but might produce a plant in only 1 out of 50 or even 100+ separate attempts, this is my experience with hoya leaves. While science says it's in the realm of remote possibility, in my opinion monsteras, philodendrons, epipremnums and the like don't fall into either of these categories.
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Not rot in bottom photo on center of stem; it’s dirt.
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alisonoz_gw
20 years ago
Fortunately it is fairly slow-growing. Most problems occur with the roots and particulatly the aerial roots, they can get onto surfaces like house walls or glass, and cause considerable problems. A big vine has a lot of weight. But they can be pruned to keep manageable and as the above have said, cuttings will strike pretty well. Better to let them heel over a couple of days . You can also take stem cuttings just check there are one or two nodes along the length and lay flat on the ground and they will root under and start leaves from the nodes. Yes its a fantastic fruit, worth waiting for. And smaller plants very attractive as house/patio plants, tough as old boots.

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