The articles by Kenneth Joergensen are pretty well presented for the layperson... http://www.suite101.com/ Selection of a complete lower phosphorus fertilizer with ~60%N in nitrate form with rates applied per given stage of development so that one can read N.Correlations of solube salts extract evaluations/parameters and total Nitrogen recommendations(in the complete fertilizer) per given stage of development-(proportioned down) can be found on various university hort sites (which also will implicate water characteristics...)(I like ncsu).... ...so that I would not wish to broadside seedlings with something they simply cannot handle...

Experimentation is fine if it is based on understanding the peculiar aspects of what ever plant we are dealing with. When it comes to Australian native Proteaceae plants there are unique considerations that need to be taken into account. Once we have an understanding of these characteristics then by all means we can take advantage of them. Experimenting blindly is not nearly as constructive. Australian Proteaceae plants are sensitive to Phosphorous to varying degrees. BUT it all makes sense if we are aware of what their original environment was. Proteaceae from the skeletal sandstone soils that have always been very low in nutrients, especially phosphorous, have over thousands of years, developed special adaptions known as proteiod roots. They are noticeably different. (I shall spare you further details about Proteiod roots, but a Google might give you more.) Plants developed these in order to maximise the surface root area so they can absorb the scarce nutrients that may be present in these sandstone derived soils. However in the more nutrient rich rainforest zones it is quite possible that Proteaceae are more tolerant of nutrients and maybe even Phosphorous. I always err on the side of avoiding common fertilisers with high rates of phosphorous. Even chook poo can cause problems, although I do give my rainforest plants a dose of Dynamic Lifter once a year. For example, I find Banksia ericifolia to be very sensitive while some Grevilleas are a bit more tolerant. As for your last remark Nathan I assume it is a joke. Anyone being wrong, should not inferr anyone is not wanted.

Is it magnesium? I believe you use Epsom Salts to combat the yellowing/green veining .. I THINK. Minerals in soil seems to be a very complex matter and I gather there is a danger of adding too much of one mineral which can prevent the take up of another. It's all a bit too much for my brain cells. For me, better to use a complete fertiliser in which the right balance had been worked out by some one else. I have a Port Wine Magnolia in a tub which seems to go through an annual bout of yellow leaves/green veins. I'm guessing that something is being leached out of the potting soil. I dig some homemade compost into the top of the mix, apply a couple of doses of Thrive to provide an immediate boost and apply some Osmocote to provide future feeding and the leaves green up - until next time. Do you have grass growing up to the murrayas? That might be taking up a lot of the food and water. You can also try giving them a good talking to and tell them to stop mucking around and grow. Early morning is a good time to do this - fewer people around to hear you.

Hello Amato.Our mains water usually has a ph of 7,9 -8.We buy very concentrated sulphuric acid (96%).We add 500 ml to our water tank wich holds 4 cubic metres (4000 litres). This works out as 1 ml for 8 litres of water.Battery acid is usually 35%,so my guess would be that you should probably add 2,5 ml for 8 litres of water.In any case, it would be wise to have this checked by a laboratory ,unless of course you've got ph testing paper (or a reliable ph meter).Greetings Tunilla. PS:I forgot:I don't know what your water ph is of course,so,some experimenting would be advisable.