Some of your photos are a little too close-up which makes it hard to grasp the context. What's certain is that the excavation needs to be somewhat larger than the finished product and then backfilled. I wouldn't label this overzealous grading. It requires a little extra room to perform the construction. So you see the maximum extent of space you have to build a patio. But there's nothing to stop you from shrinking it if you desire. However, thinking that putting dirt back around a tree is somehow equivalent to putting roots back is just not accurate. An amputation cannot be undone. Putting dirt back will make no difference. In spite of that, the tree will re-grow some roots as that's what they do. The ultimate patio size is a factor of desire and space available, but as patios go, it certainly doesn't look too large. Neither does it look like the ret. wall will be abnormally tall. Its curved shape will add strength. It will be stepping or sloped down in some way to generally follow the earth so it's highest section will not extend for great width. Its height is a balancing act between the patio elevation and the surrounding soil levels. Calculate these out and adjust them as you see fit. Raise the patio too much and you will be filling the bottom end or shrinking the patio size. Lower it and you'll be creating a taller retaining wall. Balance and moderation are the key. As I look at the pictures, I don't see anything that can't be worked out to a decent conclusion... if the right design decisions are made along the way. If this were my yard, I'd prefer the appearance of a nicely detailed mortared stone wall, but that requires more skill and higher cost material than the kind of block you're proposing. Therefore, it would be more expensive. But it would look better, too. What you decide on is a factor of cost vs. benefits as you see it. At the end of it all, it will be imperative that you establish groundcover capable of holding soil in place. This is a key to preventing erosion.

Hey, JoJo... Do the directions on the Soap mention rinsing the leaves after application/before sun exposure? I've seen bad things happen to plants that were soap/oil treated and then put back into the sun. Sadly, I even toasted a pepper plant in just such a fashion :-( Josh

Hi I made "beds' composed of rocks and expanding foam and confined the top soil in them . About 1/2 of the total bottom. You can't boil the soil obviously lol so I put it in buckets with water. remove the floating stuff and poured off the foam tha forms . let it set overnight ,poured off the dirty water. Took 3 washings and then it settled down. Put this into the beds (there's alot of sand in top soil) about 4 inches deep you can compress it untill you get about 3 times the volume . Covered this with an inch of fine gravel. The other sections of the floor are covered with acrylic chips and stones. I run 1600 GPH pump using only foam filter Had to fill very slowly but after the second fill it remained fairly clear. Run the tank one week pH remained above 6.5. Would have preferred to have filled it entirely with rainwater but only have 80 gallon storage tank. Ran another week and proceded to plant. This is the tank that contains the Lace plant that has now broke dormancy for the third time. IMO the main problem with them is they don't get enough nutrition during growth. I also believe dormancy is induced by daylight hours not temps or water comp. All the rooted plants have grown fantastic. 3 kinds of swords 3 kinds of crypts and dwarf water lily. The swords are now touching the surface so are over 24 inches tall Crypts are ten. Val has covered the entire bottom. remains under 10 inches though. Something keeps chewing the WL leaves so have had no flowers or floating leaves. What is odd is I'm having trouble with Java fern!! lol Maybe too much current as I run 1600 gph with foam filter. Anyway these are by far the healthiest looking plants I've grown. Not sure if it's the top soil or the sunlight?? gary

There are actually 2 considerations for plants in direct afternoon sun through windows. One is photo load and the other is passive heat gain. The dark leaves are good solar collectors, and each leaf has what is called a boundary layer of air surrounding it that insulates the leaf. IOW, light turns to heat on the leaf's surface and the boundary layer of air insulates it from escaping into surrounding air. So, if you site your plants in front of a south or west window where it gets direct afternoon sun, it would be a good idea to have a fan on a timer to move enough air that the boundary layer of air is disrupted and heat can escape the leaf surface. The actual photo load should be no problem unless the plant is unable to adapt to what you suspect might be too much light. The plant is genetically capable of living in the (potentially) brighter light, but the leaves currently on the plant might not have the ability to make the adjustment. IOW - every leaf can't adapt to every light level. Those that are required to adapt to conditions that are outside the range they're able to adapt to will be shed and other leaves perfectly adapted to the light level where the plant is currently sited will take their place. Over-watering is probably your largest concern at this point. DO use a wooden dowel stuck deep in the pot as a 'tell', and don't water unless the 'tell' tells you the plant is dry or nearly so very deep in the pot - like all the way to the bottom. I'd be thinking about a fresh start for the plants next summer. A full repot with root pruning and a change to a soil you won't have to fight for control of your plants' vitality would be a very good move on your part. The plants will love it and you'll get much more from the growing experience when you literally see the fruits of your efforts being made manifest in your plants. Don't forget to flush the soil every month or two. It is important to help keep the level of mineral salts from fertilizers & tapwater from getting out of hand. Questions? Input? Al