Gean, thanks for the info about Flickr. Last year I emailed the link to a set of photos but didn't know the whole photostream could be accessed that easily. When I recently dowloaded an app from flickr that makes uploads faster, I think I must have set the the permissions to public. As long as links can still access my sets on Flickr, maybe I don't need Public access. Thanks Krista and Gean for your very nice comments. My garden actually seems bigger in my photos but it is actually a postage stamp. One day (hopefully while I am still physically capable of taking care of it) I hope to get a move to a house with a bigger yard. btw I just realized I spelled it wrong. :~( It's CrepUscule not crepescule. Thanks to those in this thread who spelled it correctly!

OK, my back up plan is that I realize that Crepescule will be too big for the bed and I'll have to move it. Then I'll HAVE to get another rose for the bed. Since I've been FORBIDDEN to get more roses until I plant everyone that I have. But I'm sure it will take a few years for it to get that big. Girlgroupgirl, I bought Lady Hillingdon at Chamblees last September. I went on a spree last year and bought 8 roses at Ashdown and 10 from Chamblees. After I pot up the two Glamis Castle I have, I won't have a pot ghetto anymore. At least not a rose pot ghetto.

Titian, if you have rose replant concerns, maybe Marlorena can speak to the problem. I believe she's mentioned it. If the dieback you refer to is similar to what we struggle with here in the PNW, perhaps you have verticillium wilt? It shows up in our soil and causes shrinking foliage and blooms and then branch dieback. I've seen it take down mature trees in time. Lilacs, roses and many other shrubs plus a variety of perennials and annuals are susceptible. The monumental task of complete soil removal can help if a manageable bed space is the target. (I don't blame you for sidestepping that laborious course of action!) Otherwise, it's recommended that replacement plants are resistant species. However, I have had some success with digging a large hole, removing the old soil and bagging it for disposal, sterilizing my shovel, filling the hole with clean soil and planting a healthy susceptible shrub with undamaged roots since the wilt enters the roots and spreads upward. I'd keep your roses well watered and the ground cleared of debris where the fungus can multiply. I've also read that in warm regions you can put down black plastic for a month or two prior to planting and essentially bake the fungus to death. Like you, I'm not keen on removing soil from large expanses of garden, so one or both of those shortcut approaches would be my preferred method(s). In my experience, roses can survive incredible challenges, even formerly wilt infected beds. Your new teas are lovely choices, and I wish them well! Mrs. BR Cant is a classic and I'd grow her, too, if I lived in your climate. From across the Pacific, I'm cheering you on with your winter chores! Carol

I’m in the same area as Sultry, so fewer nematodes, and heavily amended soil. I add a lot of OM, as my only real defense of the nematode attacks. More OM means more predatory organisms to reduce the number of root knot nematodes. I don’t think the own-root roses can “fight off“ the nematodes. My understanding is that some varieties have more mass to their root systems, and can afford a little nematode nibble here and there. Others don’t have as many roots, so nematode attacks hit them harder. It also builds over years, so some will start off ok, but over time, without intervention, the nematode infestation will overcome the plant, and it dies. The benefit of Fort, is the root mass. It makes so many roots, that it can handle a bit of loss to the nematodes. My own-root Lady of Shalot is doing very well, as is my Abe. I also have an Abe on Fort, and don’t see much difference at this point, except that the Fort needs more water. Both of these are young plants, only 2-4 years old, so we‘ll just have to see how they do long term. I do recall a post some time ago about the breeding of Austins being a factor; some have better background to do well here than others. If he calls it a musk or tea, I’m more inclined to think it will do well here. Gallica or damask, not so much. It‘s all one big experiment, really! I’m amazed at what will actually grow in my little microclimate...I’ve not shared any of these lists with any of my plants, and have no intention of doing so. :-)