Now I think I understand your question about how to do cuttings. First, find a nice healthy LONG stem with lots of leaves and cut it up near the edge of the pot just after a set of leaves. Now you can cut this cutting into 2 or 3 sections depending on how long it is - all you need to make a cutting is a node and at least one set of leaves. The cutting doesn't have to be the full stem with that leafless end viney part- in fact, you can just cut that off. To try to explain it simply, cut sections containing 2 sets of leaves each- keep track of which end came from the pot and which end is the end of the stem. Snip the leaves off of the bottom node, and there is your first cutting. It should be a stem with a leafless node at the bottom and a set of leaves at the top. Poke a hole in the soil, stick it in so the node is under the soil level and deep enough that the set of leaves are about a half inch above the soil level. Do 3 or 4 in a 4" pot. The reason for doing short cuttings like this is so that you will wind up with a full, bushy plant. As the cutting roots and grows, the stem should send up new growth from the soil level, and from the top leaves, and this new growth will eventually form the leaves and vines you see on your mama plant. Is this what you wanted to know ?? I hope so

I bought a kerrii from a local greenhouse (Canon City, CO) a couple of months ago. Some of the vines were VERY shriveled as if dead, so I cut them off - they bled! I stuck them in water to see if they would revive, and lo and behold, they have not only revived, they're rooting. Needless to say, I'm thrilled! The original cuttings from which these two vines had tried to grow, looked as if they had merely been laid on top of the soil, which was terribly dry when I bought the plant. They hadn't rooted well at all, and the soil in the pot looked rather disgusting. I added more soil to the pot, and I'm trying to keep it on the dampish side. The plant does look better, but the leaves are still very leathery and tough, and not at all deep glossy green like the picture posted in this thread. I hung the plant under grow-lights, but may move it to brighter sunshine, or outside when the weather warms enough, to see if that helps. My main problems are a lack of good shady places to hang stuff, lots of wind, and very low humidity. I also found a good-sized tsangii at this nursery, along with the usual assortment of little carnosa variegata starter pots. The tsangii was also very dry, but it's responding nicely to being watered and loved. I use a homemade fertilizer on all my houseplants which absolutely sends my hoyas through the roof: 12 oz. beer (any brand/type, just cheap) 1 cup Epsom salts 1/2 cup household ammonia (no particular scent - just cheap) 2 cups water Mix it all up in a quart bottle, keep it capped until needed. Does not require refrigeration. Shake well before use. Add 1 tablespoonful to a gallon of warmish water and use every other week in your regular watering/fertilizing schedule. It supplies carbs for energy, magnesium for photosynthesis, sulfur to acidify the soil, and nitrogen for lush growth. I've been using it on everything this winter, and all my plants are growing like mad, even at nearly 9,000 feet elevation. Many have also bloomed all winter, and now the hoyas are going berserk with buds and blooms, as well as new growth. Becky

flowerbaby I forgot to mention the name of the supplier in Quebec is Flora Exotica'

Sorry, you've been lied to. 99% that this will NOT produce a new stem. In order for that to happen, there has to be at least a bit of stem attached to that leaf - which happens in that remaining 1% of cases. Google "propagate hoya from leaf" for more details and people's experiences. And get your money back. The leaf should live though, possibly even for a long time, growing lots of roots and nothing else. That's a cute pot, by the way.