I never respray myclo (Immunox) after raining beyond the normal cycle. It cannot wash off and once it sets is not affected by rain. That label seems odd to me- it must mean if it rains shortly after spray- the fungicide is a systemic and within an hour of good drying conditions penetrates the tissue of a tree where it can't be washed off. It could also mean that you don't need to spray again until rain makes fungicide necessary- but that wouldn't be for almost 14 days later when you factor in kick back and post spray protection. I have been using a 10-14 day interval, rain or shine, for over 20 years with that stuff, many sites, many, many susceptible trees and always get the bad guys. You don't have to worry about temp- with oil you don't want to spray anything green close to either side of a freeze but that's on the label. With most pesticides, cool temps don't matter.

For Vandas if in right situation, it’s very difficult to overwater. They really don’t like pots or medium especially if not very open and at some point you will get in trouble unless they are in a pot with like wine corks or large horticultural chunk orchid charcoal. They want humidity at 50-70%. Or higher. So you need to have a greenhouse, grow room, natural outside summer humidity or in winter use a room humidifier inside your home or grow room. I think they do best growing on basket extender hooks of the appropriate length - just sit down in the bottom hook end and wire to the extender and hang on a pole with the hook on the other end. No media, no basket. Etc. Water twice a day in active growing season when the root tips are nice and green. But here is the trick — on sunny days water in the early morning until the roots are dark green. It may take several passes and then waiting 5-10 minutes and watering again. If the roots are dehydrated, it make take a bit to get them to start absorbing water. And then do the same in afternoon. In July/August when the temps in the mid to high 90s and up - I water an extra time - you have to determine this based on your environment. Once the plants are well hydrated, it won’t take as much time to get the roots to turn dark green. Note, some plants are a little harder to keep hydrated especially if they don’t have many roots. Those will need more water on the roots. They need high humidity to promote roots along the stems. I fertilize in the morning watering 25 ppm every day. I use K-Lite 12-1-1 with 10% calcium, magnesium and all the necessary trace minerals (from First Rays). I use KelpMax from First Rays once a month as directed. Once a month I use Better Grow’s Orchid Plus 1/2 tsp per gallon and I don’t use the k-Lite for a couple of days. Vandas are heavy feeders and mounted this way, they only get what runs off them - there isn’t any potting medium to hold fertilizer. Do not use a high dose fertilizer- don’t want to burn the roots. What is needed is a frequent low dose each day like they would get in their native jungle habitat. Most orchids like lots of water — the trick is to put them in media that’s well drained enough to take lots of water without rotting the roots and this includes a pot that will drain well too. I like Orchiata (pinus radiata from NZ) with orchid charcoal, LECA and very large orchid Sponge Rock. I like to use use white packing peanuts at the bottom of the pot and find orchid roots like them too. I use Power or Power Plus size of Orchiata so the mix drains very well in a clay pot with slots or holes. Or octagon large hole net baskets, or use a green plastic nursery bulb pot or a regular plastic nursery pot and use a wood burning tool to burn holes into the sides as desired. You can soak a clay pot overnight, put in a vise, use a hole bit to drill the appropriate size - have someone pour water over the pot as you drill.

Again its peaking here in SE Ohio, in case anyone is interested.

Beautiful!