Hi bromadams The length of stage one varies according to the type of seed involved. I've had Acanthostachys reach the top of the container in six weeks while Guzmanias take sometimes up to eighteen months. The only feed they get is a mist spray of Phostrogen 1/2 strength about every two weeks or whenever I remember to do it. This is only after they have grown two leaves and are starting to get bigger. I've never been able to grow Aechmeas as quick as your sturdy looking orlandianas; the best I've done was with some Ae. Blanchetianas and Bil. Roseas which got to about two inches high in about twelve months. My problem is, that when I start stage two I move them to a south facing area which gets less light (especially during winter) and growth slows down and they become strappy. As that's the only protected place I have to put them, I have to make do. Unfortunately when the time comes to pot them up, it does take a while to harden them up again. But I am having fun and getting resonable results albiet not as quick as you. I guess it suits me to grow them slow as any faster, I wouldn't be able to keep up with the potting up. All the best, Nev.

Chris, to be safe, wait until the pup is about 6" or more before cutting, cut down along the base below the soil. Grass pups are extremely slow growing once detached from the parent. (I've seen concrete grow faster!) In fact, it's often wiser to just buy another small plant than to wait for growth. With my Alcanterias I keep one offset attached to the base of the mother and let it grow naturally from the base. These pups are much faster and sturdier.

I have found bringing some broms into a new environment is very stressful. I got an A.I and put it in partial shade and it looked bad for the first 3 months new growth seems to be ok now. Also most commercial broms are grown in filtered light, so moving them to full sun should be a slow process. I find a protected spot near where I want them to end up and let them get used to the environment. Then move it to its new home preferably in the winter months when the sun is not as strong. Full sun in my Florida 9b is not full sun in in zone 7 or 8 so I have to be careful when a plant is listed for full sun.

Thanks for bringing this great photo to our forum Mike. I am just enjoying a morning coffee, and soaking up the view of fantastic Alcantarea's. (Can I ask what forum the original photo was posted..?) A.Tawarea originally came from Hawaii to NZ. So there will be some of that style plant around, but it is smaller than the plant in your photo. A Tawarea is imperialis X vinicolor, and size is closer to vinicolor than imperialis. I have a plant of a vinicolor X imperialis, so it will be interesting to see how its colour develops as it matures. So, I would say the plants in your photo are a form of A. imperialis Rubra, just the conditions they are growing in, somehow bring out that lovely red colouration. There are some A imperialis Rubra at a local subtropical garden "Totara Waters" (see link) They had 2 groups of A. imperialis Rubra, as can be seen in the photo gallery, and all originally came from the same source. However, as they matured, one group (bottom right photo) developed that amazing red colouration thoughout the whole plant. They were grown hard, in full sun...but something caused this group to "colour up" more than the others. Now I have tried growing A. imperialis rubra in a range of conditions, but have not managed to get this colour....yet... BTW if you ever visit NZ, this garden is a must see...! Here is a link that might be useful: Totara Waters