I tend to think that if it did not droop until you potted it, that could be the problem. Several things to keep in mind with camellias. They droop because of stress - figuring out what stress is usually the problem. The first thing I'd do is check the planting level. Camellias are shallow rooted and planting too deep in a container will starve the roots of oxygen. If you combine this with the use of a commercial potting mix - you could be compounding the problem - because CPM's usually contain a lot of peat moss that holds a lot of water. Watering is good, but if the plant is waterlogged - meaning that the majority of what you put it is not coming out - then it's too wet. You can amend bagged potting mixes with with perlite to improve drainage. I have successfully used 1/2 potting mix and 1/2 perlite and they have done very well in containers. You will have to look at the watering because the pots will drain very well - which if you're not watching out - they could dry out. But you can add water - you can't take it out! I'd try to get the drooping plant out of the condition it's in. Rinse off any of the old soil- but don't completely bare root it. Repot it it in 1/2 potting mix (or bark if you can get it) and 1/2 perlite. Keep the roots near the top of the surface, but not exposed. Water well and make sure it drains. I'd try to use a transplant fertilizer - like Miracle grow liquid - they make one - it could help the plant get over the stress. Also don't use saucers - they have a wicking action.

Every area and every camellia gardener has ones own favorite potting mix. July is not the best time to change the pot or to modify your potting mix. Keep your present plant at a nice location under filtered sunlight. Well diluted fish emulsion and some chelated iron mix solution can be applied in September. Your camellia plant should be very happy in properly fed and properly moisted condition. Then go to locate an expeienced camellia gardener from your local Camellia Society. They should be very happy to give you the tips. Some gardeners wash off all the old soil and add his own potting mix. Some only washed off 60 to70% of old mix pending the condition of old potting soil.. Usually It is being done in late dormant stage. Commonly very small fir bark is added to the mix to improve air space structure. Forest humus, good compose( not cattle waste nor redwood compose), aged ground peat, good commercial potting mix----etc all can be part of the mix. If you intend to grow your camellia in the pot, new and better potting mix is must.

Here in the Dallas Area, camellias need shade starting at 11am-12pm. Further up north, you can probably exceed that. If the plant gets too much sun, those leaves in direct contact with the sun will start to brown out. I use drip irrigation and have placed a dripper right close to the main stem of the camellias. Then as they grow, I add more tubing around the plant in order to water roots further away. My tubes have other drippers, about every 12" in both directions. They are set to run for 1 hour (equates 1 gallon of water) most of the year, except now, when I run them for 1.5 hours because our daily temps are in the 100-110s through September.

In late March or Early April, my seedlings are 5 to 7 inches tall. I select the desired seedling and plant it closely to the trunk of understock. Immediately approach graft is done. I keep the plant in my green house or sheltered area without direct sunlight. I may loosely cover the grafted plant with a poly bag. That is all to it. After two months, keep the grafted plant under right amount of sunlight with proper fertilizer solution. I never cut the seedling so I know it has my signiture seedling plant.