Hi Carlos, I think the folks on the attached link might better be able to address your problem. Not many fruit farmers post here in Farm Life. Good luck figuring out what to do. Here is a link that might be useful: Fruit and Orchard forum

Here's what I have, and what I want. Let me know if you see anything!! HAVE: Papaya Mangosteen Cranberry Bean Marigolds Bonsai: Seeds of some kind of Oak Seedlings of some kind of Birch Seedlings of some kind of Maple WANT: Fruit: Bananas Lychee (litchie) Noni (morinda citrifolia Rambutan Vegetable: Luffa Spaghetti Squash Flower: Jasmine Poppy Other: Aloe Bamboo  any kind Banyan Tree Coffee Arabica Henna Houseplants Indigo Senna PALMS: Cuban Royal Palm - roystonea regia Alexander Palm/King Palm - Archontophoenix alexandrae, Ptychosperma alexandrae Majesty Palm - Ravenea rivularis Coconut Palm: Cocos Nufifera Canary island date palm - phoenix canariensisBismark Palm - bismarkia nobilis BONSAI ANY citrus tree Amur Maple Japanese Black Pine/Japanese Red Pine/Japanese White Pine Japanese Pagoda Matsumurae Japanese Maple Olive Weeping Willow White Wisteria

Hi eibren, I think it will do OK potted. I recommend a fast draining medium like you will find detailed on the GW's "Container Gardening" forum. You should be able get productivity & keep it head high. Lots of times I took up seedlings that had "volunteered" to come up in the wild. I found the shorter ones took off better than the more mature. Essentially those seedlings that were a fist span tall got to be calf high at 3 months & would set fruit waist high in it's 1st year. The tree has a soft root - it will drive deep or shallow laterally. You will be able to harvest root pieces in a sustainable way. The plant's tendency is to make multiple trunks of soft wood. When you cut it back leave some inter-node(s) & same with branches' internodes so you can contour. I prune to a single main trunk & periodically top it to keep the tree about jump-up height . If the tree later leans too much I cut it back to a lower segment on the trunk & nurture a new main trunk that suits me. It is very resilient & not demanding of watering. In good draining soil it tolerates tropical downpours fine. Be advised the ripe fruit is heady when mashed. What falls from the tree do not stink immediately, nor do they break apart when drop onto soil. They sometimes ripen unevenly when picked green for later use. Mine are visited by innocuous wasp pollinators, more than bees. Both pollinators are not at all interested in stinging me - apparently the Noni flowers have them busy. I don't push my face right in their work flowers, obviously. Try a 3 - 5 gallon bucket sized container &/or layer seedling in sand. You can pot it up into bigger home if it thrives. I have had underground roots I thought eradicated, cut deep below ground level, that sprouted back. If you get a good root stock growing & don't let if freeze Noni will forgive any ineptitude.

Geez, my bad. Plummy, you're right, it was a Garcinia (probably G. xanthocymus). Had meant to post the ross sapote, but now I'm not sure if I had taken a photo of it, so here's a canistel (Pouteria campechiana)instead: Here's the mamey sapote (Pouteria sapota), Lisa: An immature Chrysophyllum cainito (star apple, caimito) fruit: A giant miracle fruit (Synsepalum dulcificum)-apparently it's only the leaves that are larger than the usual type, not the fruit: Finally, a before and after shot of my cacao (Theobroma cacao) and cupuassu (Theobroma grandiflora). Shot in Chicago, April 2005 (cacao on the left, Herrania in the middle-it later died-cupuassu on the right): The fruits that both the cacao and cupuassu came from. Cupuassu (March 2005): Cupuassu opened up: Cacao (March 2005) The same cacao and cupuassu today (Aug. 2006) in West Palm Beach. The cacao is the larger one and the cupuassu is the smaller one to the right. My observation is that the growth rate of cupuassu under the same conditions is at least twice as slow as that of its cacao cousin: Marcelo