The Actinovate and BiotaMax are both products that contain beneficial fungi and bacterial that are intended to prey on the disease causing fungi and bacteria in the soil. Just as people eat yogurt, kefir, and buttermilk to re-establish beneficial gut bacterial to treat an upset stomach, these soil probiotics help plants fight off diseases. I keep trying to imagine the interactions between either of these with the Myco-Grow. It sort of reminds me of the old story of Satchel Page about a thermos bottle keeping liquids either hot or cold. "How to it know?" Part of my brains says the microbes in the Actinovate and BiotaMax will prey on the mycorrhizal fungi in the MycoGrow that we want to get established in the soil. On the other hand, the MycoGrow contains many of these same microbes in addition to the mycorrhizal fungi, so they must play well together. While I've already bored everybody besides you to sleep with the benefits of mycorrhizal fungi to a plant's roots, these other microbes play different but equally important roles in the health of the soil and plants. Just as lady bugs, lacewing larvae, and praying mantis come in like the calvary to eat the aphids, spider mites, and thrips, these soil probiotics fill a simlar role. They will kill off the bad bacteria and fungi that cause plant disease such as Damping off, Powdery Mildew, Verticillium, Fusarium, Black Spot, Rusts, Fire Blight, and Phytophthora root rots and blights. It's difficult to say anything for sure since the ingredients of the products don't give you any idea of how much of the microbes are included, only which ones are included. My hunch from reading over the info on all three products is that the Myco-Grow contains almost everything that is in both of the other two plus having the Mycorrhizal fungi. The Actinovate only has one strain of bacteria, so I'm guessing the BiotaMax will do more good than the Activovate. The Myco-Grow contains: Endomycorrhizal fungi Glomus intraradices, Glomus mosseae, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola, Glomus etunicatum, Gigaspora margarita, Gigaspora brasilianum, Gigaspora monosporum Ectomycorrhizal fungi Rhizopogon villosullus, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon amylopogon, Rhizopogon fulvigleba, Pisolithus tinctorius, Laccaria bicolor, Laccaria laccata, Scleroderma cepa, Scleroderma citrinum, Suillus granulatas, Suillus punctatapies Trichoderma fungi Trichoderma harzianum, Trichoderma konigii Beneficial Bacteria Bacillus subtillus, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus azotoformans, Bacillus megaterium, Bacillus coagulans, Bacillus pumlis, Bacillus thuringiensis, Bacillus stearothermiphilis, Paenibacillus polymyxa, Paenibacillus durum, Paenibacillus florescence, Paenibacillus gordonae, Azotobacter polymyxa, Azotobacter chroococcum, Sacchromyces cervisiae, Streptomyces griseues, Streptomyces lydicus, Pseudomonas aureofaceans, Deinococcus erythromyxa ======================================================= The Biota Max Soil Probiotic contains fungi Trichoderma harzianum Trichoderma viride Trichoderma koningii Trichoderma polysporum bacteria Bacillus subtilis Bacillus laterosporus Bacillus licheniformus Bacillus megaterium Bacillus pumilus Paenibacillus polymyxa bacteria for fixing nitrogen ======================================================= Actinovate contains only Streptomyces lydicus bacteria ======================================================= You said you had 10 tomato plants. I'm assuming that means 5 Earthtainers, so for a good experiment I would suggest the following: One with no probiotcs added One with MycoGrow only One with BiotaMax only One with MycoGrow and BiotaMax One with MycoGrow and Actinovate My newest topic I'm reading research on is using Aspirin as a soil drench and foliar spray to help plants fight diseases and stress. I'll post something when I find enough to indicate whether it's a fad or fact.

So Kimmsr, you think if you say the same thing over and over everyone will start to belive it. Are you preparing to run for political office?Mycorrhizal describes a characteric of certain fungi. Just because you cannot find it in the taxonomy of living things does not make it less relevant. The importance of mycorrhizal fungi was not even mentioned during my undergraduate studies in Plant and Soil Science. This has the potential to take agriculture to a new level in productivity. It also has the potential to impact the home owner. In San Antonio, we have to be cognizant about water restrictions. Increasing the reach of the roots by 10, 100, even 1000 times is an exciting prospect. When you look on the label, the mycorrhizal fungi innoculants contain a wide variety of spores. Does the list include the species I need? I do not know. But I am keeping an open mind and continuing my research. I have a fairly new yard (4.5 years), and it was covered by fill dirt before the sod was laid. I do not believe I gained many fungal spores from this dirt (and rocks, so many rocks). I agree with Kimmsr to a point. This is not a cure all to take place of any tried and true organic methods. But I do not agree that it is a waste of time and money. And I do not agree that just increasing the organic matter is all I need to do. Soybean growers do not hesitate to innoculate the seed with nitrogen fixing bacteria. These bacteria are capable of living in the soil on their own. I have not read about the life cycle of the beneficial fungi with the mycorrhizal characteristic. Can it live on its own or does it require the host plant to live and reproduce? Questions that need answers.

Fungi grow in soils where the conditions they like are, somewhat acidic, fairly moist, with a good bit of woody material. The mushrooms we see are the seed stalks produced by fungi when those conditions are good and they will be reproducing. Neither the fungi nor the mushrooms are in any way harmful so there is no need to remove them except, possibly, for appearances sake. If there is a need to remove them be sure to compost them rather then throw them out since they do have nutrients that could be used by other plants. Here is a link that might be useful: About mushrooms

1406. Fireplace Condition Safety Item. The flue is open into the attic; blocked by insulation. Recommend that a fireplace specialist permanently seal the opening with steel to prevent accidental heat or flames from entering the flue and attic spaces for safety. ====Fire hazard. My old house had signs of a previous attic fire. Did you ever have a chimney sweep inspect your chimney? 803. Walls Seek Further Review. 1.) Active leaking observed at the foundation wall. The framing at this area was extremely wet. Recommend repairs as needed. 2.) Efflorescence observed at foundation perimeter; this is a mineral deposit left behind from exterior water infiltration, recommend consulting sellers as to moisture problems or a licensed contractor for review. See gutter and carport slab comments. ===Well, there is leaking and the inspector thinks it might be from the gutters and carport slab. How do the gutters drain? . Some center posts have been removed and replaced with stacked blocks which may allow settlement to occur. Client is advised to consult licensed building contractor for additional information prior to closing. ===Is this in a basement or crawl space? Sounds like there is a support problem. . 1.) Flexible plastic drain tubing has been installed from the laundry is improperly connected into the plumbing waste lines near the hatch opening under the bathroom; improper or missing fitting noted. This line is also not properly sloped/supported for positive drainage. Evidence of leaking noted at the improper connection. 2.) Active drip type leak also observed at t\supply pipe fitting under the center bathroom. Recommend further review or repairs as needed by a qualified licensed plumber ===Someone played do-it-yourself-plumbing and didn't know what they were doing. If I was buying, I sure would like a plumber to go through the whole house first to see if there is any other diy. 1812. Distribution/ Ducts Repairs Needed. Ducts are lying on the ground at some areas. Recommend securing to framing or excavating under the ducts to prevent moisture and mold accumulation. Recommend review/repairs as required by a qualified licensed HVAC contractor. ===Ok, sounds like crawl space. And you have been losing heat/cooling through your ducts. Does this help?