For the species that separate from the cap, I think you could safely pick them off the tree when the nut is essentially all tan/brown with just a little hint of green AND when it separates easily from the cap with minimal force/pressure. If you have to fight with it, it's not ready. If it gives in easily, it's ready. Probably the same is true for species that retain the cap longer, as long as they look fairly ripe and come off the stem without much force they're basically ripe enough for germination purposes. Time, of course, will depend on species.

Oh wow lovely to see you still here Malcolm. Yes the internet can be a very "interesting" place alright. Lots of helpful, knowledgeable and kind people and then the others. I often wonder are those people as belligerent/entitled in real life. If I come across one i just think, well I'm thankful I'm not their poor spouse, sibling, colleague etc. :). Imagine having to deal with that in real life. I also think that some people are probably ok in real life, they just get a bit brave hidden behind a computer. Its a pity it has stopped you posting, but I understand your decision entirely. Hope you are surrounded by beautiful trees, lots of fruit and fragrant blossoms :). Hope you get to share your knowledge with others in person.

The pods almost look more like Hot Banana to my eye, having seen both varieties growing together. Regardless, they are edible/ready for harvest as soon as they go grom green to yellow. If you want to pickle them or can them for sandwich rings/slices, et cetera, I recommend that you harvest the pods while they are yellow (so that they'll be firm and maintain their integrity when processed). I thought the two were just different names for the same pepper. Shows what I know! I went back and checked the labels, and sure enough they are Hot Bananas rather than Hungarian Wax. Thanks for the ID! I picked these peppers, and I think it was a bit premature. The flavor and heat were both less than expected. The same plant has two more large pods right now and I'll wait a bit longer this time.

1.) I bought my various pepper plants from a farmer's market and they were all about 15" high. Is there a way for me to tell how old they are? No way of telling, depends on the variety, some only get 16 to 20" tall full grown. Some get over 4ft 2.) When the little tag says 70-75 days to maturity does that mean when a seed starts showing green until the point when the peppers are ready to pick? DTM = Days from a 6 to 8 week old transplant, RED is not always the answer, there are Orange Scotch Bonnents, Lemmon, lilac, Tan, white and or chocolate habanero's and others, ( In Bells, theres a permagreen, that is green when ripe) 3.) How do you pick these peppers??? I have one pepper that's about 2" inches long and super bright red so it seems like it's ready to pick. Do I cut the stem it's on with clippers? Twist it off? If clipped, how far above the top of the pepper do I clip the stem? Depends, how hot are they, Real hot, I snip the stems and let the fruit drop into a plastic cup. 4.) How do I know the peppers are actually ripe? Again depends on the variety, a hot banana will never turn red.. 6.) I have read people recommending nitrogen and epsom salts. Is this a good idea? How do I test the soil to figure out what my plants need (note that these are all in ground). Epsom, add a tbsp to the soil around a couple plants, If the leaves get greener, you need epson salts, Odds are you don't need nitrogen ~ by the way Sevin kills all the earthworms when you spray. Big thing is Sevin kills bees and messes up the human reproductive system If your parents were farmers and used a lot of this stuff, and you are male you "Might" have a reproductive organ that will not grow any bigger than what you were born with. (Thank A tree hugger) ~~Although, too much nitrogen can cause the plant to turn yellow as well but usually a yellow plant means it is lacking nitrogen. 10-15-10 is a good place to start with fertilizers. The middle number is the nitrogen. This is B.S. The first number, in a 3 number system is ALWAYS Nitrogen, The second number is ALWAYs Phosphourous, The 3rd Number is ALWAY Potassium. Peppers only need an N = 1.8 (RE NMSU Chile Capitol) Using an N = 15 is 8 times more N than a chile plant needs. 7.) Am I supposed to be picking off some flowers or leaves to help growth? If so, how do I do that and which ones do I choose? I'm afraid if I cut some of this stuff it'll never grow back! :) Only if you live in a short season like a 90 to 120 day season, in a 150 to 200 day growing season, don't worry about it Try a few plants, see if it helps 8.) How much should I be watering? I know based on rain fall... but combined with that, how many total inches of water a week? Stick an empty tuna fish or cat food cans, open end up, out in your garden. If it fills up during the week, you don't need to water, in ground plants. Potted plants odds are they will need some 9.) I don't see any bugs on the plants but I keep reading about all the bugs people find on their plants. Am I not looking closely enough or not looking enough times during the day??? I haven't used any insecticide at all. When you use low to no nitrogen, you will have a lot less bugs, Aphids, cutworm, white flies, grasshopper. hornworm love it when you pour on the Mirical Gro. Also MG delays ripening, lowers heat of chiles. But it's your choice. Just my 2 after 55 years + of growing a veggie garden IMHO organic is the way to go. Byron