In your most recent post you stated that it's the new growth that is a "bronze or dull red". New growth on many (but not all) varieties is what we tend to refer to as burgundy (your dull red?), and 'Tahitian Sunset' is definitely one of the varieties that exhibit the trait. It's new growth is always a rich burgundy color that slowly changes to green. Perhaps it's a matter of color perception, but if the foliage is truly "copper or rust colored" as you first described it, then something else may be going on. If it's "dull red" (burgundy), then relax and exercise patience . . . it'll turn green in a few days' time.

No, there aren't any citrus that will thrive outside 12 months per yr..Unfortunately.. I planted rootstock, (Poncirus trifoliata) that bears small, bitter, very seedy fruit, but was surprised when it made it through our first icy winter. Poncirus is quite thorny. Still, it was a great experiment and lived 3 yrs..If I had mulched, (mandatory) in late autumn like I had in previous yrs, I'd bet it would still be living..I fed it citrus fertilizer and applied Superthrive during growing season. There's another rootstock called Citrus Ichangensis that is also quite hardy. Citrus Junos/Yuzu is hardy to 0F. I would think all 3 citrus/rootstock could grow here, w/a good amount of mulch in winter. Check out www.worldplants.com Click on Catalog, then C, scroll down to citrus..open, and you'll see pics of these plants.. The citrus at worldplants are on the small side, (9") but there's another nursery called Mckenzie Farms that sells hardy citrus..He ships taller trees. August wouldn't be a good time to plant though, if you're interested, I'd wait until spring, after all signs of frost is gone. Spataro, do you ever shop at Jamacian Gardens in Morton Grove? They've got lovely plants, and 'just looking, lol' is worth the trip..They have a second store, smaller, further north, I believe in Libertyville..They both sell citrus, but prices are fairly expensive. I also love shopping at Ted's Nursery, and want to visit Sid's some day. Most of my citrus came from FL, but w/the current ban, we can't order.It's ashame because two nurseries I order from, Briteleaf and Harriscitrus ship nice-sized, healthy trees, for 15-20.00 each.. Good luck w/your palms this winter..Do you add Christmas lights to keep warm? Toni

Hi, Guys thanks for the help sorry I have not replied sooner but have been away. Sarah and Finbar I have looked for leaf miner but there was not a sign of it. In addition, Ray thanks for the advice. However, I think I might know what the problem is. It could be a copper deficiency. I have just spent about 1hr looking at what the department of Ag's web site and there is mention of deficiencies. I looked at all of them and think it could be copper. Here is an extract "The leaves are often dark green and smaller than normal, except for a few giant leaves found on vigorous S-shaped branches which emerge from stunted bushy trees. Twig growth is weak and likely to die back. "(from http://www.agric.nsw.gov.au/reader/citrus/h2311.htm) This seems to fit the bill but I am still not to sure.

To me it looks like at some point the soil was let to get dry to the point of severe wilting of the leaves. And it looks like it was left that dry for a fair amount of time. Drought looks like that; brown shriveled leaves that stay on the plant. By contrast, too much water or a soil that stays to wet causes root rot which causes the leaves to become limp, yellowish (sometimes) and they fall off easily. If you fertilized while the soil was dry, that will speed up the desiccation of the leaves. Never feed a dry soil, always soak the soil the day before, really flood the container. Then feed the next day. Your stick may be damp because it was left in the soil all the time, condensation over time of the little bit of moisture left in the soil will make it look damp. The stick is not supposed to be left in the soil, you just push it in for a few moments, then take it out and look at it and feel it. I think you got a false positive, as it were, by leaving it in the soil all the time. Gritty mix needs to be watered thoroughly and often. That's the point of it, you can water quite often and still have lots of air in the mix, so the soil won't get waterlogged. But at the same time, Gritty mix drys out quite fast, so you NEED to water a lot if you use it. I'd follow Patty's advice, and hope and pray. But I really don't see a lot of good plump green cambium (the green part of the bark), what's there seems a dull green, dry and shriveled. Not many trees recover from that point, but you can try. If it were me, I'd get a new tree, but you never know, it might come back. Good luck.