Yikes! First, I would depot the plant and inspect the roots and try my best to determine the extent of the damage. If the roots are sour smelling, black, slimy, you probably need to repot to save the tree. If, by chance, the roots appear ok, you could set the plant (out of the pot) on newspaper overnight so the soil mass can dry out, then return it to the pot. I can help you with more precise directions and some tricks that will help you keep the soil from getting too soggy again if the roots are ok. If it needs a repotting, we can address that as necessary, if you're willing to put the effort into it. The insects in the soil are PROBABLY feeding on dead plant material. Hopefully, getting your watering habits and soil moisture levels under control will also bring the insect population under control. Let's see what you have to say about the condition of the roots & whether or not you want to make the effort to repot it if it needs it. Best luck. ;o) Al

I live in Sun City, CA 92586 zip code which I believe is zone 9A (?). I moved in early last July and am trying to rehab a LONG neglected yard. There is a Meyer Lemon, planted in ground, that is about 20-25 years old or so. When I moved in, it was LOADED with lemons (still green/growing) and eventually kept me, several neighbors, my family well supplied (and then some!!!). In mid-February, I had a gardener trim/clean out the center of the tree, and some "dead wood" from the top and perimeter to open it up a bit. Now it's the end of May, and a have a lot of set fruit, largest is probably silver dollar size, smallest just set and growing, and still lots of flowers and new buds coming. Tree looks super happy, but some of the small set fruit is turning yellow then black dry and shrivled. In many cases, large set fruit, small, flowers, new buds and a couple yellow or black baby fruit are on the same branch. This has been going on for a month or so and it doesn't seem to be impacting the rest of the fruit production or tree growth. Since I didn't live here this time last year I don't know if maybe it's normal...self selection maybe? Any clue what may be causing some new fruit to yellow/blacken?

Thanks John, Durling uses C-35 for their Standards in general. I assume they don't use it for all cultivars. I've been using mostly Vigoro Citrus on the mature Citrus and Avocado planted in the ground. My backyard used to be a citrus grove but I've not tested my soil. I've just received some Jack's 25-5-15 but if the Meyers prefer 3-1-2 ratio instead of 5-1-3, I can do that easily as the two Meyer Standards will be making one big espalier. The citrus I've potted are getting Vigoro in the pot and Foliage Pro as a foliar. FP is 3-1-2 ratio plus Micros. I adjust the water for the potted ones to PH 5-6 at Ieast every third watering as my water is PH 8-8.5. I noticed the potted LImes want more N than that. Below is a pic of the center of the problem Meyer. Light green leaves instead of dark. Starting of yellow veins. Some curling. All 10-15mm fruit turning yellow or black. 20mm fruit still green as is tiny fruit that just set. Black fruit and just set tiny fruit are in center of picture.

Sean, as long as your Vigoro has micronutrients, that's fine, but I would also hit it with a foliar application of Grow More Citrus Growers Blend. It is something you want in your "citrus arsenal" here in S. California. With all the heavy, cold rains we've experienced in the last 2 years, you're going to run into the same issue I have with citrus in the ground (my soil is mainly DG here in N. San Diego county near the coast): a leaching of micronutrients, especially magnesium. So, start with the Vigoro, but do make a foliar app with some micronutrients. You'll see the difference, promise :-) And Tim's right, no pruning for now. Wait until you obviously need to do some MINOR shaping. Remember, with citrus, pruning equals no fruit. Citrus produce fruit at the tips of their branches, so you're cutting off your next fruit crop when your prune! And Tim's advice about removing suckers is right on. Just break them off if they're soft. If they've hardened off, trim close to the rootstock. Our water isn't too alkaline here in San Diego county - about 7 to 7.6. Fine for citrus. But, for your little guy, acidifying the water with some vinegar and pouring it over the fertilizer may help prevent the micronutrients from getting locked out due to the alkalinity. You guy needs a bit of a rescue. Tim's advice is good. Once recovered, you probably won't need to acidify your water. You can also achieve this with your foliar application - acidifying the water you use to dissolve your Growers Blend in. When you pick up your moisture meter, pick up a decent pH meter (don't buy the cheapest one). It's worth having these in your gardening tools. I've had both my moisture meter and my pH meter for many years. Great tools to have! Patty S.