More detail than some will appreciate, but also a clue on how to find sulfur at a good price. The article fruitnut has linked to clearly states that sulfur can be deficient in fields used to grow alfalfa, and that improved yield will be had when sulfur is applied. Several years ago, when I was trying to find an economic source of sulfur, to lower soil pH around our blueberry shrubs, I was obliged to do some rather extensive research. I learned that farmers in northeast Iowa were seeing problems with corn and soybeans that they could not address with conventional fertilizer. Analysis of the crop was done, and a sulfur deficiency was found. This was around 1975. Since then, agricultural sulfur has become more widely available here in the midwest, where it is often applied to fields used for growing alfalfa, corn, and soybeans. This is NOT being done to lower soil pH-rather, sulfur is applied because the plants need sulfur, as a nutrient. Why is this important to those of us who grow blueberries? Its important, because farmers are buying sulfur in large quantities, and that helps keep the price low.

trees do NOT... can NOT.. invade modern chemically welded PVC pipes ... they can very easily do so .. in old fashioned sewer lines.. like at the link if yours were dug out... as you state.. i cant believe they do not modernize the pipe system ... perhaps you should be asking that contractor his opinion??? a very simple primer on tree roots... some say.. a root mass can be 2 or 3 times the size.. of what you see above ... but do NOT confuse yourself into thinking is is in the same shape ... most are pancake flat.. and only a few feet down in the soil [unless there is a leaking fertilizer source down there.. like a sewer pipe] .. see pic below on the root mass of a silver maple .. unless i forget .. lol .. almost all of its roots are there... in the space my ball cap took ... and the large ones going deep ... were headed towards a septic field... go figure on that ... i dont know either of your trees.. but had green and white ash.. both tended toward surface roots ... which was a big problem for me .... i wnated them deeper ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

Ye I agree 100% on those species, you can grow VFT's as well but please note that they do have dormency requirements. If you are happy to try them then Id suggest some 40 watt flurencent bulbs to give them extra light about 8" above the plants. Another great one thats beutiful, easy and fantastic to watch is the Drosera Capensis (south african sundew). Unlike the Drosera Adelae (austrialian) it moves both its tenacles and leaves to trap its prey, you can also foliar feed the Capensis where the australian plant is very picky and easier to kill (the capensis is extremly tough) I have a N. Ventricosa, I grew it under bulbs, it grew "ok" but grows alot faster outdoors in natural sunlight. If you get a Nepenthes dont use the tray method with this plant, I made this mistake and the pitchers started to wilt and die. Take the saucer and fill it with perlite to absord excess drainage and the plant will grow fine. I have 4 VFT's, 3 D Capensis, 3 D Adelae, 4 P. Pinguliflora (butterwort, also needs dormency) growing indoors under 2 X 40 watt florecent tubes. All are growing fine. With the amount of light your apartment receives, get some flurencent tubes, you can get some soft white light bulbs (they not to expensive) and a light fixture to hang or mount above the plants. My advise since you are in an apartment would be to go for something that is tropical which would not need dormency. My personal favorite for you would have to be the Drosera Capensis. When you want something different after this mabey get a Nepenthes Ventricosa. Cheers Sheldon

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