Up, up and not away!

Well, after much discussion, debate, and numerous proposals on the subject, we now have a new Laundry Forum on THS! Hopefully this will indeed help relieve some of the burden in the original Appliances Forum, where the 300 thread limit was starting to burst at the seams in a somewhat desperate effort to contain lengthy conversations about *all* appliances... thanks, Spike, for making this upgrade happen! Anyway, in order to further improve access to information on laundry-specific topics, Spike and the THS staff have created another new FAQ section, specific to the Laundry Forum. I, "hardwarehack" Tom, am now working as the Editor of both FAQ sections, and will be re-posting the various laundry-related FAQ articles from the Appliances FAQ here... as well as starting into the large pending queue of FAQ files submitted to me by helpful THS participants. As Spike noted, the transition to the new split Forum system will take a little while, so for now, I'll leave the original Appliance FAQ article URLs intact, for handy reference. If anyone has additional suggestions for this new FAQ section, I'm about to create another FAQ thread in the main Forum - please post ideas, comments, and formal proposed FAQ textfiles there. Note that outside links (e.g. company sites, etc) are *not* permitted in the THS FAQs, partly to avoid advertising, and partly to avoid the looming specter of linkrot in countless "permanent" files (remember that unlike the main Forum threads, FAQ articles are here to stay!). I will also continue to monitor the "main" Forum threads, for possible interesting and helpful data, that can be immortalized in the FAQ. :) In short, if anyone wishes to contribute here, there's no need to email me - just post your thoughts in the main Forum, either in the FAQ thread or other threads, and I'll then compile and re-post them here. Thanks everyone!! --Tom. [added to Laundry FAQ: 21 May 2003]

In an "HE" clothes washer (e.g. a frontloader or a Calypso), it's important to use a low-sudsing detergent for optimum cleaning results. Excessive amounts of suds can hamper the wash action (by cushioning the clothes as they fall), and in extreme cases can even be harmful to the machine itself (by overflowing the drum and getting into mechanical and electronic parts). Many laundry detergents today carry the actual "HE" label, or are otherwise indicated for use with frontload washers. Depending on one's local water hardness and degree of soiling in the washload, it's often possible to use carefully measured amounts of "regular" laundry detergents as well. The most important factor is generally that the formulation be reasonably low-sudsing. To determine the sudsing level of a given detergent, here's a sample test procedure... -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- [Originally posted in the Appliances Forum by Rich (spambdamn_rich), on 28 January 2002 in the "(AKA) Best Laundry Detergent Part 4" thread - many thanks, Rich!]: Here's a simple test one can do before putting a detergent of unknown sudsing potential into their front loader. It may help avoid a "suds lock" or other messy disaster. It will also give you an objective and scientific way of comparing various detergents for their suitability for front loader washing: 1) Get a nice glass or clear plastic jar with a tight fitting lid. A clean pickle jar does nicely for me. 2) Add a set amount of the detergent sample to the jar. I suggest maybe 1/4 teaspoon. Fill jar no more than 1/2 full with 1 or 2 cups of hot tap water - the hottest your tap will produce. 3) Put lid on jar and tighten. Shake jar for about 10 seconds vigorously. Set on counter and measure the suds level, in inches. 4) Do the same thing with HE detergents and "unknown" regular detergents. Use the sudsing level of the HE detergent as the benchmark. If you get too much sudsing with the HE detergent, you may have to reduce the amount added in step #2. In this case you may need to do a 2-step dilution: add a set amount (like 1/4 teaspoon) to a cup of water. Mix, and then add a set amount of that solution to the pickle jar with the hot water (maybe 1 oz. of the diluted detergent to the hot water in the shaking jar). 5) Keep a record of your results. It's very easy to forget which did what a week, month, or for me, even minutes later. 6) Be consistent! 7) This method should eliminate guesswork, and the variability of your water hardness and water heater temperature. If you also have data on the hardness of your tap water, that would be helpful to others you want to share your data with. Otherwise, listing your results with a known HE detergent, like Tide or Sears HE powder, will help calibrate your system and interpret your results. 8) Have fun! P.S. I used a system like that about a year ago to check out Cheer powder. I rejected it as being way too sudsy for use in a front loader. I also rejected Ariel and Foca detergents for similar reasons. ----- I re-ran some of my tests, albeit with different equipment. Here is a summary of results. Technique: 1 cup of 140F tap water, about 5 grains hardness, in a 24 oz. clean Gray Poupon jar, with 1/4 tsp of various powdered detergents. Here they are with suds level and notes: Detergent...........Suds Level ---------------------------------------- Sears HE............1 inch suds Sears HE:STPP 2:1...1/2 inch Tide HE.............3 inches, quickly subsiding to 1 All HE..............2 inches Ariel...............4+ inches (to top of jar) Foca................4+ inches (to top of jar and beyond) Cheer...............4+ inches (top of jar with force) Deluxe..............4+ inches Supreme.............1 and 1/2 inches (notes: The Deluxe detergent is a highly phosphated custom detergent sold by a local chemical warehouse. The Supreme detergent is a phosphated low sudsing detergent sold by a local Cash & Carry restaurant supply house. Its recommended amount is 1 oz. per 10 lb. load in front loaders) Based on these results, I'm going to try using the Supreme phosphated product in the Neptune. Since its recommended amount for a 10 lb. load in a front loader is only 1 oz., 1/2 the amount recommended for Sears HE, it should have comparable sudsing characteristics plus the benefit of phosphates. I would not recommend Cheer, Ariel, Foca, or the Deluxe products for use in front loaders. Although the All HE is relatively low sudsing, the recommended amount is 1/4 cup, and I noticed that even at that amount, the wash water was not slippery and the cleaning results were poor. Your results may vary. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- --Tom. [first added to Appliances FAQ: 5 October 2002] [moved to Laundry Room FAQ: 28 December 2004] [last edited: 28 December 2004]

In an attempt to alleviate the sense of bewilderment often expressed by newcomers to this rather technical and in-depth Forum, the following FAQ article provides definitions for some of the terms and abbreviations employed in the discussion threads hereabouts. This list will probably always be a "work in progress", as the laundromania meme continues to evolve and ever more-inclusive reference works are needed to truly understand the denizens of this site. :) If there is a particular term or piece of information anyone would like to see included in this mini-dictionary, please let me know! --Tom. ------------------------------ First, to help bring true computer neophytes up to speed with these types of online discussion boards, here are some of the more commonly-seen acronyms, not specific to the Laundry Room Forum, which have been used on many online message sites and chat rooms for years (predating the Web itself): AFAIK - As Far As I Know BIL - Brother-In-Law BTW - By The Way DD - Dear Daughter (Also, in the Appliances Forum, used as an abbreviation for "Dish Drawer", a type of dishwasher manufactured by F&P.) DH - Dear Husband DIL - Daughter-In-Law DP - Dear Partner DS - Dear Son DW - Dear Wife (Also, in the Appliances Forum, used as an abbreviation for "Dishwasher". It is highly recommended that husbands not use the two meanings interchangeably, LOL!) FAQ - Frequently Asked/Answered Questions FIL - Father-In-Law FWIW - For What It's Worth IIRC - If I Recall/Remember Correctly IMHO - In My Humble Opinion IMO - In My Opinion IRL - In Real Life (i.e. not via a computer/online connection or search) ISO - In Search Of JMHO - Just My Humble Opinion JMO - Just My Opinion LOL - Laughing Out Loud OT - Original Topic, or conversely, Off Topic OTOH - On The Other Hand ROFL or ROTFL - Rolling on (the) Floor Laughing SIL - Sister-In-Law SO - Significant Other SWMBO - She Who Must Be Obeyed (see "DW") TIA - Thanks In Advance YMMV - Your Mileage May Vary (i.e. this was my experience, but you might get different results) ------------------------------ And here are some of the acronyms, abbreviations, and unusual or otherwise unfamiliar nomenclature seen in the Laundry Room Forum proper: AEG - Allgemeine Elektricits-Gesellschaft. German manufacturer of frontloading washers. AEG washers are of very high quality (a close second to Miele) and tend to have similarly high prices in North America. As of this writing (January 2005), not sold directly in the USA, but can be ordered from Canada. Asko - Swedish manufacturer of quality frontloading washers. Bosch - German manufacturer of quality frontloading washers. As of this writing (January 2005), Bosch offers two series of frontloading washers, the smaller "Axxis" machines which run on 240V power, and the larger "Nexxt" machines which run on 120V power. Combo washer/dryer or Combo WD or Combo - A single machine which can both wash and dry clothes in a single drum, without transferring the load between a separate washer and dryer. Not to be confused with a washer/dryer STACK or PAIR, which refers to a separate washer and dryer installed together as a unit. Danby - North American company selling relatively inexpensive appliances. The Danby frontloading washer is manufactured by Gorenje, in Slovenia. Duet - A large frontloading washer manufactured by Whirlpool in Germany. Closely related to the Kenmore HE3/HE4 machines. Equator - An American company which sells frontloading combo washer-dryers. F&P - Fisher&Paykel. New Zealand based manufacturer of high-efficiency toploading washers (and, as of late 2004, also a unique toploading dryer). FL (or FL washer or FLer) - A washing machine that is loaded and unloaded from a front-mounted access door. Frigmore or FriGEmore - Forum term first coined by Rich (spambdamn_rich) to refer to the Frigidaire-built frontloading washers sold under various labels, such as GE and Kenmore. See the FAQ article "What is a FriGEmore?". H-axis - Refers to clothes washers which tumble/spin clothes about a horizontal or nearly horizontal axis. The category includes frontloading washers, as well as some toploaders like the Staber (which are known as "H-axis toploaders"). HE - "High Efficiency". Refers to clothes washers which use much less energy and/or water and/or detergent than conventional American toploaders. Usually means a frontload washer, but there are also HE toploaders. Also see the FAQ article on "HE Detergent". HE3, HE3t, HE4, HE4t - Large frontloading washers made by Whirlpool in Germany, and sold at Sears under the Kenmore label. Closely related to the Whirlpool-branded Duet washers. Known as "Hetties" in the Forum. Hettie - Forum term first coined by Amy (GatorGirlinTX) to refer to the Whirlpool-built Kenmore HE3(t) frontloading washers. Sometimes also used to refer to the similar Whirlpool-branded Duet washers. Laundromania - A condition characterized by an obsession with the latest and greatest laundry appliances and/or old classic laundry appliances and/or the fine details of the operation of all laundry appliances, a desire to watch clothes washers while they're running through their cycles, a desire to custom-formulate one's own laundry detergents, and a general fascination with ultra-clean fabrics. Contagious in direct proportion to the length of time spent on this Forum. Usually viewed here as a positive trait. :) Laundromaniac - A person afflicted with laundromania. Descriptive of many of this Forum's regular participants, who are willing to spend long hours writing detailed posts in thread after thread to help others make informed laundry appliance purchasing decisions and use optimal techniques in their own laundry rooms. Kenmore - A brand of appliances sold at Sears and Sears subsidiaries, such as the "Hettie" and "Frigmore" frontloading washers. Note that Kenmore does not manufacture any of their own appliances, so all of these machines are re-badged from other companies (often Whirlpool and Frigidaire). LG - Korean manufacturer of large frontloading washers and combo washer-dryers. Formerly known as "Goldstar", but renamed and moved toward the more upscale appliance market. LCB - Liquid Chlorine Bleach. Miele - German manufacturer of frontloading washers. Miele washers are typically sold by high-end retailers, tend to be very expensive, require 240V power to operate, and are generally regarded in this Forum as the most durable and reliable residential frontloading washers available. Neptune - Large frontloading washer produced by Maytag. OxiClean - Trade name of one brand of oxygen bleach, containing sodium percarbonate as the active ingredient. There are now numerous "Oxi" or "Oxy" type cleaners on the market, which are very similar chemically. Persil - Laundry detergent manufactured in Europe (by two different manufacturers: Henkel in Germany, and Unilever in UK), popular with owners of Euro-branded frontloading washers like Miele. Originally named after two of the major ingredients, sodium PERborate and sodium SILicate. RMC - Remaining Moisture Content, a measurement of the amount of water remaining in fabrics after a clothes washer's spin cycle. Expressed as a percentage: a load of fabrics which weighs 5 pounds when bone dry, and 7 pounds when removed from the washer, has an RMC of ((7-5)/5)(100) = 40%. RPM - Revolutions Per Minute, a measurement of the speed of a washer's spin cycle. Higher speeds will extract more water from fabrics, thus leaving a lower RMC or Remaining Moisture Content, which translates into greater energy efficiency as less work is required in the dryer. Sodium perborate - An oxygen bleach used in some laundry detergent formulas. Only provides bleaching action at higher temperatures, so a chemical activator is usually included in detergent blends that use perborate as a bleaching agent. Sodium Percarbonate - An oxygen bleach used in some laundry detergent formulas. Can be purchased separately in various "Oxy" cleaning products, or as the pure substance from chemical supply houses. Effective on stains as a soaking solution, and much safer on colors than chlorine bleach. SS - Stainless steel. Not to be confused with "SxS", which means side-by-side, a term used in the Appliances Forum to refer to a particular refrigerator/freezer combination. Staber - An American manufacturer of H-axis TL washers. STPP - Sodium TriPolyPhosphate. A complex phosphate which functions as a water softener and "builder" in some laundry detergent formulas. Improves cleaning performance, particularly in hard water conditions or in loads with soil deposits. Can be purchased separately (i.e. not as part of a detergent mix) from chemical supply houses, or in laundry "booster" products like White King. See the separate FAQ article on "STPP". TL (or TL washer or TLer) - A washing machine that is loaded and unloaded from a top-mounted access door. Usually a V-axis machine, although there are also H-axis TLers, like the Staber. V-axis - Refers to clothes washers which spin clothes about a vertical axis. The category includes conventional American toploaders as well as some HE machines like the Calypso. ------------------------------ [first added to Laundry Room FAQ: 2 January 2005] [last edited: 2 January 2005]