OFG, those links never contained answers. A couple of years ago, we generated a list of questions to be added to the FAQ. Answers from members of the forum were to be submitted to OrchidDude, the Keeper of the FAQ. There were only a couple of us who submitted any answers. I recused myself from those two, based on the fact that 1) I built my GH from a kit, and 2) I was quite vocal that winter in our annual vented/unvented heater debate and I didn't think I could be viewed as objective. Now would be a good time to ask for answers to those and any other GH FAQ questions that you might have. Submit Q&A to OD. SB

Would not even think about catts. I would think the citrus would be fine. I was able to grow raddishes, lettuce, carrots successfulling in z5 w no heat and occasional leaf damage. I grew cucumbers as well but any extended freeze would wipe them out. I did have a faucet freeze and burst. I do keep citrus in an unheated (insulated) garage and seldom see damage unless someone forgets to close the garage door. They can take some pretty darn cold temps. They don't grow much though until taken out in the spring. There is a grower here in W. Mass who claims to have semi-tropical temps in his GH with no heat. North wall is completely insulated and has a double south wall. there wasn't much in there when i visited so i take it with a grain of salt. Seeing is believing. Guy in ontario claims to have a gh that is unheated and stays ~ 50F ala "solaroof" design. Last i heard it was not being used due to funds. IMHO, if you're not able to make enough money selling fresh veggies in canada in the winter, then your GH doesn't work as advertised. Completely depends on what you plan to grow. I have my own experiment going and at the rate i'm building, it'll be 2010 before i'm ready for results. *sigh* Good luck and play with what you can afford to lose. Poppa

Nick, the average tomato plant won't set fruit below fifty or so degrees F, so to get much production you'd have to keep the temps around them higher than that (not sure if that can be done without a greenhouse, or a rather extensive structure of some type). There are some types that are more likely to produce in cooler temps ~ Siberian types, one called "Oregon Spring", etc. ~ so I'd grow those for sure. If you put them against the south side of a large building (preferably your house), that will help as well. And I don't know if daylength has anything to do with it, but I surely wouldn't be surprised to find out it did. You may want to try some supplemental lighting on a few to test it out if you can't get a straight answer anywhere else. Since tomato blooms are self-fertile you won't have to uncover them to let insects pollinate, but you will need to move the blooms to do it. The natural action of the wind or an insect landing on the bloom is what triggers pollen to drop inside each flower onto the pistil (female part) and pollinate it. So either brush them with your hand repeatedly or install a small fan to move them around. Overall, and you probably already know this, but don't expect the same production as we get in summer. In cooler temps, growth of everything slows down, so it'll take longer for those tomatoes to form and ripen.

I think I've WSown this in the past - my computer crashed this past fall and I lost all my records, but I know I WSed some kind of clary sage mix. I think it was a mix called Claryssa. I did have success with it, and knowing the way I garden in general, I most likely did not cover the seeds - too much work for me! I probably sowed it around late February into March, since this is when I do my annuals, and I think this is an annual. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I really lost a lot when the computer crashed.