We've been using a lawn care company the last couple of years, to get a better looking lawn. lol! They do 5 applications throughout the season, and although I don't know off hand what they applied, I am positive they fertilized in March or April and applied some grub control later in the year, as well as a weed preventative same time as fertilizer and again sometime during the summer. I don't water regularly, it is a pretty big yard. I water if they applied something that required it ( if it didn't rain) and if there is a period of heat with no rain. We used to mow it about 3" but last year kept it a bit shorter, 2" maybe. Sorry I have no idea what kind of grass or mixture it is. The worst damage seems to be under or very near to the base of bushes, like my lilacs and rose of sharon as well as around the boxwoods. also, the edges closest to a stone foundation.

The only way to know if this is a soil nutrient deficiency, or soil pH related, is with a good, reliable soil test. Contact your local office of the University of Idaho Cooperative Extension Service about having this done. You can also dig in with these simple soil test, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else is going on with your soil and what to do to work on and make your soil into a good, healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants. What you have might also possibly be a plant disease, although most often that appears as blotchy leaves that then turn yellow, or maybe, possibly due to some herbicde although most often plants sprayed will wilt, not become rigid. Here is a link that might be useful: UI CES

Might be the first 'dog vomit fungus' sighting of the year. Almost all fungi in the garden in the mulch are vital decomposers. Dan

Yeah, my neighbor with the green thumb said it looked dead too. I was hoping to save it. What a shame. Ive had it for years. Hopefully whatever killed it doesnt carry over to a second one I have to the right of it which is visble growing past my roof :( Anyway, thanks.