pickwick, This post has certainly been hickacked a lot. I'd think it best to start another thread concerning wanting a critical review of, and possibly changes being made to the FAQ here. I notice there are several of the FAQ that don't have the name of who 'input them', and there are no credits. As far as requesting a review of that FAQ at the Tomato Forum, you might want to contact paul2010, who input it, along with the credits. Now, back to the post at hand. Julie, Here is what the FAQ here says here. Do I need special growlights for starting seeds? The consensus among the many experienced gardeners at GardenWeb is that ordinary 40-watt fluorescent bulbs, in standard "shoplight" type fixtures (inexpensive and widely available at home-improvement and general retail stores) are adequate for the home gardener starting seeds indoors. Lights marketed as "growlights" or "plantlights" ,etc.,produce more red and blue light than regular fluorescents,but are often very expensive,sometimes downright exorbitant. Many gardeners recommend using one "warm"(usually sold as "kitchen and bath" or "soft" lights,and having more of the red and/or blue wavelengths) and one "cool"(regular) bulb in each fixture to provide a "fuller spectrum" of light. An explanation of how plants use light may be useful here. Light,whether from the sun or artificial sources,consists of varying wavelengths of radiant energy. In their normal state our eyes perceive these wavelengths together as "white light". Everyone is familiar with the spectrum of colors made visible when white light is refracted by water droplets to produce a rainbow. Plants mainly use the red and blue wavelengths of light. Red is utilized in photosynthesis(how the plant produces it's food), blue influences the hormone systems that control growth. It would seem that extra red and blue wavelengths in a light source would be beneficial, but in practice,at least in growing seedlings, intensity of light seems to be more important than spectrum. The much-higher cost of special "growlights" does not necessarily produce better seedlings! The combination of a warm and cool bulb makes sense,but if cost is a factor(warm bulbs cost up to 3 times as much as regular tubes), standard fluorescents will work just fine.

You would either want to put the lights on chains so you could lower and raise them to keep them within a couple of inches of your seedlings; or be prepared to raise the seedling tray up and then down as the seedlings grow. I start a lot of seeds early in the house and use typical flourescent lights for this, no special bulbs required. Although you do want the light directly above the seedlings, even if it means you need several lights next to each other. Otherwise your seedlings will grow spindly towards the light. Hope that helps :)

Starting your own plants from seed is one of the most rewarding gardening experiences, it can also save you a small fortune! Also, many species and varieties are simply unavailable unless you "grow-your-own". Choosing seeds is the first step, there are many reputable companies that offer catalogs, besides the fun of browsing through them, mail-order companies are generally good about dealing with any problems you might have. In buying seeds through retail outlets,it's a matter of "buyer beware" ,those 10/$1 seeds may not be such a bargain if they don't grow! Check the package for date,and complete growing instructions,a reputable seed company will also list the Latin name and germination percentage you can expect.If you've acquired seeds from GardenWeb swaps,or other seed sources ,ask for any info the grower can give! You can use most any container,as long as it will hold 3-4 " of growing medium and has drainage holes in the bottom. Flats with liners are nice,but "recycled" containers will do, if you're reusing containers, follow the cleaning instructions under "what is damping-off?". Seeds need a loose,porous,fine-textured medium, one that won't develop a "crust" on the surface that can interfere with emergence . "Potting soil" is an extremely variable product, many retail brands (especially the "bargain" types)will give disappointing results in seed-starting! A "soil-less" mix will make your growing experience much easier. Some common ingredients in soil-less mixes: Vermiculite, a heat-expanded rock, can be used alone or in combination for starting seeds. Milled sphagnum moss (NOT the same as peat moss unless it says"sphagnum peat")has the benefit of inhibiting damp-off fungus, mixed with vermiculite it is frequently used by professionals. Peat moss(sometimes called "Michigan peat" or "peat humus")a heavier,more difficult to wet and more variable product than sphagnum moss ,is common in retail mixes sold for starting seeds,often in combination with perlite or vermiculite,it's often(much!) cheaper than sphagnum-containing mixes but can be more difficult to handle,especially for the beginner. Don't start seeds too early,there's a wide variation in optimal indoor starting times,and unless you have lots of room,starting too early can be stressful,for you and your plants! You may want to consider starting perennials in summer for Fall planting,as many perennials don't bloom the first summer,to save room for annuals and veggies that really need a head start in temperate climates. Sowing seeds: Fill containers,allowing an inch or so from the top for easier watering, and moisten well. Allow excess water to drain, medium should be moist,not soggy. Press the medium down lightly to eliminate air pockets. For plants that don't mind ,or even benefit from transplanting, like tomatoes and lettuce,a number of seeds can be planted in larger containers and transplanted to individual pots when seedlings are large enough to handle. For those that dislike transplanting ,such as melons,or to save yourself time later on,plant 1-3 seeds in individual containers,snip off all but the strongest seedling with scissors. Sow the seeds on the surface,and cover with additional dry medium to the proper depth, a general rule is twice the diameter of the seed.Very tiny seeds,or those requiring light are surface-sown without covering. Mist the medium well and cover with clear plastic , a 13-gallon clear kitchen trash bag fits a standard flat perfectly(I buy the kind with the handles and tie them loosely)Don't put an enclosed container like this in direct sunlight!! A temperature of 65-75 degrees is suitable for the vast majority of common plants,but there are many exceptions,too many to list here! Check at least daily,and remove the plastic when seeds begin to sprout. Place under bright light ASAP! Seedlings need intense light to grow strong and stocky,fluorescent lights are your best bet (see "do I need special lights?") Position so that seedlings are 2-4" from lights, 14-16 hours a day. A timer will help automate the process. If space under lights is limited,you can try rotating them under lights in 12-hour shifts. Keep a close eye on them and adjust heights as needed. Containers enclosed in plastic should not require watering until seeds germinate,once plastic is removed monitor closely,seedlings should never be allowed to dry out completely,and should be kept moist until roots begin to penetrate the medium. Allow the medium to become dry 1/4-1/2" down before watering thereafter,to allow air into the medium and encourage roots to spread. If you've used a soilless mix, begin fertilizing 4-5 days after germination with a water-soluble 15-30-15(or similar ) fertilizer at half the recommended strength,and weekly thereafter. I've had good results with fish emulsion and seaweed extract at recommended rates,for those interested in growing organically. For growing on info see"OK my seeds are growing...?"

Party makes a good point that if you can't have them outside until June then you have time to grow from seed. That sounds quite late to me as most of the zone 5 garden clubs want theirs by 1st week of May. But if you can't plant them out until June then you won't have the full basket look until well into the heat of mid to late July. The full basket look that you buy at most nurseries has been growing inside in a greenhouse for 45-60 days before going out for sale. " I want to know if I planted a couple of wave petunias in the side of a hanging basket, through a coco liner, would that also be problematic" Yes. They don't hang well and the weight pulls them out plus it causes a big drain hole for the water to drain out too quickly. And if you want to plant in holes in the sides of a hanging planter then you need to use sphangum moss not a pressed cocofiber liner. You want to plant them at the outer edges of the top so they drape over the sides and hang down the sides. Dave