The two worst plants any beginner can start with are serissa and fukien tea, the problem is that both of these are 'pleasing' to the eye and look nice to start with. Both can be and usually are a royal pain in the butt to work with. When in the states I grew mine in a greenhouse setting (along with a few other tropicals) but never a FT. What you should do is Google care of them, there is a wealth of info on the web. If you go to the website of Jerry Mislick he has a ton of information on care of most tropicals and he grows them indoors way up north. To handle them indoors you will need at least flourecent lighting 5 or 6" above the plants. With just a few one standard double tube fixture should be enough to work. Humidity trays help but with dry central heating it's more of a placebo for you in the winter. You should buy the highest wattage tubes you can find and 'full spectrum' is best. They should have the lights on 12 to 14 hours a day. The plants will get 'leggy' but you just prune that back in the spring. As a point of information: I did a test of serissa vs. soil mixes a number of years ago under controlled conditions. The winning medium was pure medium Perlite...which looks really crappy when used in a Bonsai pot. Bob

If the rose bloomed repeatedly in a previous season, it must have been a grafted rose that died back (probably from cold) to below the graft, leaving only the rootstock alive. The rootstock then made shoots and leaves. These did not bloom because roses of this type only bloom in June on canes that survived the previous winter. If any canes survived the past winter, it will bloom next month, but not like your original rose. The original rose is lost forever, If you replace the rose, be sure to plant the new one with the graft well below the soil surface. This might get it through the winter.

You don't. If the issue is the root stock has taken over and the budded variety you wanted and obtained to plant has died out, then you are left with a once-flowering climber. If you want it to flower the best possible, then you train it as you would any climber, bending the canes down to closer to the horizontal so it produces lateral growth along the canes which will then flower. If you don't want a climber or haven't the room for it, then you simply whack the heck out of it down to about the size you want, then it will flower NEXT year on the remaining growth. Or, wait for it to flower, then whack the devil out of it. Either way, you likely have a once-flowering climber and eventually you're either going to have to treat it like one, keep whacking it down to keep it a small plant or replace it with a new plant. These are Dr. Huey, the likely rose you have and are dealing with. Notice the tall growth above the one plant? All the others would have those, too, had they not been cut off. But, they WILL appear...sooner or later.

You can buy iron in a bag at a plant store or as a liquid, but if the soil is not acid enough iron won't help. If you ph is above 7 you need to take the ph down to 6.5 or lower. If you drink coffee just add unused coffee to mixed with water or add some white vinegar to the water you use to water. Peat can create a more acid soil, if you mix an acid loving plant mix or peat into the soil. Once the ph is at a good level, then the plants can actually uptake the iron. I forgot to mention sometimes yellow leaves are the sign of over watering in which you may not be over watering, but have poor drainage. They don't sell Killex. I only use round up which has to hit the plant to create a kill, but I don't know about Killex. It is possible that it leaked from the soil into the rose? There are too many possibilities. I might dig it up and put it in a pot, if I really cared about it and I could not get a replacement. That would solve the ph problem or the weed killer problem. Use a rose potting mix and it should be already and later you can replant it.