Fertilizer burn shows up as discolored or dead leaf margins, whole leaves, or the whole plant could dry up. Since yours follows heavy rain I'd suspect wet feet. I've also seen drooping from too dry and pH too low. Next time dissolve the tablespoon 21-0-0 in two gallons water before application. I've applied that many times with no problems. The problems start when dry fertilizer is applied to the soil and watered in or rained on.

Every spring is different up here in the mountains of Nocal. I no longer prune by the calendar, but follow the rule of waiting until the forsythias bloom. I've noticed that in some years they bloom two weeks ealier than others. If I wait, I don't see as much blind growth. What I find interesting is that the forsythias will bloom at different times ... by a few days, or even weeks, in different parts of town, which says something about the microclimates. We had a warm January this year and a lot of people went ahead and pruned their roses, but since my forsythias hadn't shown any sign of blooming, I waited. I am glad I did because February and March were unusually cold for this area. I see very little blind growth since I started following this old rule. This timing may only be true for the colder climates, but it seems to work for me. I usually wait until the estimated last frost date for this area before I feed the plants to encourage any new growth. It's kind of a conservative approach, but it seems to protect the new growth. Smiles, Lyn

Like everything else about pruning, it depends on the size and health of the rose. Good leaves - even if they are on a blind shoot - are going to provide nourishment to the bush. So, if you have a weak one or young one and you're interested in getting it started out strong - be patient. There will be plenty of shoots with buds later on. If it's a strong bush with plenty of buds and the blind shoots are anomalies - then by all means - cut back to the next 5-leaflet leaf and command that thing to produce!

Round up doesn't cause the curling/cupping/twisting, it is an amino acid inhibitor and doesn't change the growth of the plant, just kills it. If this is herbicide damage, I would suspect 2, 4-D. It is a growth regulator which basically causes the plant to grow itself to death by overloading it with auxin which causes the weird, twisted growth. The visible symptoms on your bee balm can also be caused by pests and disease though. I have often seen aphid damage result in the puckered growth like that as well. So I would take a close look at the underside of your leaves for mites, aphids, thrips, etc...