best i can do at the link ... unfortunately ... no pix on the IMAGES side of the page ... good luck ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

I am including a link to Helleborus.org, a British based organization, that discusses germination of Helleborus seed. Most germination instructions are based upon the use of freshly collected seed. Old seed, from previous years, may still be viable, but as the seed age in storage, they develop germination inhibitors that must decay after planting, before the seed will sprout. This may require up to 3 years, plus the germination rate will often be a small percentage of the seed that is sown. Some knowledgeable growers recommend placing the seed in hot water(not boiling) and let stand at room temperature for 24 hours before planting. They claim that will accelerate the process for older seed. Those seed that float on the top of the water, are not viable seed and will not germinate. Helleborus are shade tolerant plants, but require sunlight or bright reflected light to prosper and bloom well. Best grown in a location with morning sun, or dappled shade/sun throughout the day. If planted under deciduous trees, they will be able to absorb available sunlight during the winter. They also require soil that drains well and remains rather dry during the summer months. Soil pH is not that critical for the x hybridus species, but grow best in 6.5-7.0 pH soil. Addition of Dolomitic Lime will increase pH, Agricultural Sulphur will decrease it. If you don't know what your soil pH is, and want to test it, an inexpensive kit is available from most garden centers and Home Improvement stores, that will provide an estimate of it's value. A complete soil analysis is available through your local County Extension Agent's office for a nominal fee. Rb Here is a link that might be useful: Growing & Propagating Helleborus

Good question, Bob. I'll be watching this thread to see the replies. Let us know what works for you. Like you, I've tried toad lilies a couple of times and in different locations, but they did not live beyond their first summer. Maybe keeping these two in pots for a season will make it easier to keep them under observation.

I meant exactly what I posted. Most people can't get pumice except in very small bags. Tell me what is available to you. Ideal San conditions are where they are growing in Africa. Thailand grows them differently than I do, they are very tropical looking, water with G_ds' water, every day from the skies. The will look tropical and plumped up like chickens that you see on advertisments, full of salt water. Do not use peat moss when it hardens and dries out, it is difficult to get water in, when you do water make sure you do it thoroughly. I don't know if NY has soft water or hard water? If hard water, ad just a few drops of vinegar to the water to soften it. All the professional growers are doing this, that is where I learned this little trick. Now if you can get pumice or volcanic grit use 60% pumice 30% sand and only 10% organic redwood bark the small size, or decomposed oak leaves. Potting mix is acceptable if you can't get oak leaves.When you have experience you may want to experiement with soil mixes. First get the experience before making corrections. use your own judgement/common sense with the suggestion we all give you, don't stress out over this. Norma