I have mine growing beside the house, north side. Total shade all day, but soil has clay mixed in it, stays kind of cold damp most of the time. Thick leaves prevent soil getting dried out from wind. The LOV have been pretty happy there and expanded enough to surround my ferns. They bloom reliably, smell wonderful, with no other care. I know the leaves of Oaks have covered them in winter, probably adds organic matter along with their old leaves each fall. This is a similar setting to what my mother had with her LOV at the old house. Lots of shade in summer, just ignored them except to pick the flowers each year. I do have a couple other plantings around trees in the yard. Trees are Ironwood, Elm Family. LOV are getting going, expanding a bit each year. We just mow the ones who come out too far, so they stay contained. No bed edgings. I had another bed of them out front, half-day sun under and around forsythia bushes and Oak trees. They didn't do at all well out there, even after several years. Very thin, scraggly, no flowers, no multiplying either. I dug them out and put them around the Ironwood tree, which also gets some sun and they have taken off. Perhaps you could add some shredded fall leaves to the beds this year. Not whole maple though whole oak leaves might work well. Maples get mushy with wet weather, smother beds. Oaks stay crispy, even wet and snowy. Shreds work best as they fall down between growing plants. Leaf mulch would help keep damp too. Anyway, the leaves would attract worms to eat them, work the soil around the LOV plants, enriching the location for better flower growth. Could be they would take right off with just that bit of help, and just neglect them the rest of the time. See if it works for you. I like my LOV, sure sign of Spring each year.

I am including a link to Helleborus.org, a British based organization, that discusses germination of Helleborus seed. Most germination instructions are based upon the use of freshly collected seed. Old seed, from previous years, may still be viable, but as the seed age in storage, they develop germination inhibitors that must decay after planting, before the seed will sprout. This may require up to 3 years, plus the germination rate will often be a small percentage of the seed that is sown. Some knowledgeable growers recommend placing the seed in hot water(not boiling) and let stand at room temperature for 24 hours before planting. They claim that will accelerate the process for older seed. Those seed that float on the top of the water, are not viable seed and will not germinate. Helleborus are shade tolerant plants, but require sunlight or bright reflected light to prosper and bloom well. Best grown in a location with morning sun, or dappled shade/sun throughout the day. If planted under deciduous trees, they will be able to absorb available sunlight during the winter. They also require soil that drains well and remains rather dry during the summer months. Soil pH is not that critical for the x hybridus species, but grow best in 6.5-7.0 pH soil. Addition of Dolomitic Lime will increase pH, Agricultural Sulphur will decrease it. If you don't know what your soil pH is, and want to test it, an inexpensive kit is available from most garden centers and Home Improvement stores, that will provide an estimate of it's value. A complete soil analysis is available through your local County Extension Agent's office for a nominal fee. Rb Here is a link that might be useful: Growing & Propagating Helleborus

I must second gardengal's enthusiasm for the Pacific Northwest! Truly a paradise for growing many, many types of plants, and the climate is so moderate which allows for a lot of diversity in planning your garden. Unfortunately, I am now living in Finland - which is comparable to Zones 3-4, and am practically having to learn how to garden all over again, LOL! Before moving here with my Finnish husband (the things we do for love!), I spent the last four years happily living and gardening in SW Washington State, and it was absolutely marvelous. I had little trouble with both insect and animal pests, nor did the climate and weather ever pose much of a problem. If anything, the extra rainfall in spring and fall, even showers throughout summer, proved to be quite a boon to both my flower and vegetable gardens... Truly, PNW looks lush and green ALL YEAR LONG! Don't let the misconception that "it's always raining in Washington" mislead you into thinking the more heat and drought-loving plants wouldn't do so well in the area... The PNW, as gardengal stated, can get pretty hot and dry in the summer time, but not to any extremes that would make it unsuitable for more delicate plants. PNW has a very moderate climate that gets a taste of everything, thus allowing for a huge range of gardening potential... Roses, hostas, ferns, and rhodos all thrive, just as do tomatoes and melons, even 'dry climate' favorites like succulents and some cacti do pretty darn well. Overall, it's just such a versatile climate, and an absolutely great area to live in. Lots of nature and wildlife, great fishing (especially salmon), thick and lush forests and rich meadow and farmland, friendly people, great clean air... And EXCELLENT gardening conditions!!! What more could one want? Aside from PNW experience, I spent my whole life living and gardening in Northern California - Menocino and Humboldt regions - and this would be my next suggested 'perfect' gardening area. Great weather and moderate climate, similar to PNW, but less wet and hotter summers, and the only real bad pest problems I encountered were the persistent deer.. but, I admit I was living in the 'wilderness' so it's quite natural to encounter 'wild' problems. Well, good luck in your search, and I just hope you consider the Pacific Northwest as a possibility because it's really such a lovely place to live, play and garden.

Good question, Bob. I'll be watching this thread to see the replies. Let us know what works for you. Like you, I've tried toad lilies a couple of times and in different locations, but they did not live beyond their first summer. Maybe keeping these two in pots for a season will make it easier to keep them under observation.