AJ, I do not have any experience with UMAXX, all I know is claims I have read in the past 30-minutes. My first thought when I read Slow Release Urea 46-0-0; is that is impossible, but after reading the MSDS I an assured it is 46-0-0 as this is government registered information. Looks to be as safe as Urea, almost no warnings, just a minor irritant to eyes, lungs, and skin. No known chronic effects to exposure. Source is synthetic organic same as urea. So it appears to be evirometally friendly. If the product does half of what it claims, I would be impressed, but I am a skeptic. What I cannot find is any independent case study to back any of the manufacture claims up. Not saying they are not true, just cannot verify. My problems and/or blank spots. Â Where to get it? Looks like custom order from TN only, significantly adding to a mystery cost. Â Does it really last 12 to 16 weeks, and if so will it release enough fast enough for aggressive varieties of Bermuda grass such as Tifsport, Tifeagle, etc. If it does the job, and is competitively priced to traditional slow release urea products, then great. Â Since it is an incomplete fertilizer, and I do not see the manufacture offering a complete fertilizer would mean you still need a traditional complete product once in the spring or fall. Put it too you this way. If a rep came to my farm or landscape business, gives me a couple hundred pounds for a sample to try, I would give it an college try. If it does what it says and competitive pricing, I would give it a nod. Last comment is the manufacture states the product or technology has been used in UK since the 60's. So if someone can point me to where to verify and independent studies i would appreciate it.

Hi All, There's a couple things being mixed together and I think that is why there's some confusion. When breeding SEEDS for sale such as Big Zac or Big Beef. There is a very complex process similar to what Steve/Greenguy1 was refering to. I once saw a video on the process and it is a very lengthy process of what they do to ensure all the thousands of seeds sold are exactly the same. That is why hybrid seed of veggies or flowers cost so much more. When breeding PLANTS, the breeder can cross what ever two cultivars they want, grow a lot of seedlings, and pick plants that meet their criteria for possible sale. From the plant, a new hybrid, chosen, new plants must be propagated by asexual means. Which means by division, tissue culture, etc. not by seed. Seed saved from a hybrid plant, will not be exactly like parent. Depending on the parents, grandparents, etc., they make look very similar or they could be incredibly different. People do grow out lots of seeds of plants(people often do this with tomatoes. It is called dehybridizing) to find babies that do resemble the parent. Then seeds of the closest plant are saved(if one is found.) Then those are planted again to find a seedling that closest resembles the original plant seeds were saved from. For tomatoes, this takes about 5-7 generations before the seedlings are stable and all look identical. At that time, you have an Open Pollinated plant that can be named as a new OP version of the original. As far as sterile goes, sometimes when lots of inbreeding is done to get desired characteristics, sterility can happen. It doesn't happen often though, most plants produce viable seed. Also sometimes sterility has to do with they type of plant and not inbreeding. Some plants that make offsets by tubers, don't readily produce seed or possibly not at all. Chocolate Cosmos is a plant that falls under this category. I have to go to work now. I hope I explained this simply and well. Remy

Sorry Matt, I misunderstood your "zero results" remark. There are a lot of cvs. that seem like they might make good parents, yet when you run a search for hybrids made with them, you come up empty. There can be several reasons for this: a) the thought never occurred to anybody before you, b) it occurred to them but they didn't have a good match blooming at the same time, c) it occurred to them, they had a good match, but the plant did not cooperate (turned out to be sterile, unreceptive, a selfer, etc.), d) it occurred to them, they had a match and the plant cooperated but it didn't actually produce anything worth keeping, or e) all of the stars lined up BUT they just never got around to registering it and/or submitting a photo to FCBS. Just because something is not on there doesn't mean it wouldn't make a good parent. Rather than to repeat my little rant about @#%&! Braz-el one more time, see the link below for a recap. Suffice it to say that if the plant tagged Braz-el is the same clone as the one labelled "Brazel species" in Zaghini's book (which it is SUPPOSED to be, but I've seen at least one other photo claiming to be that which lacked marmoration), then it is absolutely correia-araujoi. The clone pictured in Shane's photo has been IDed as such by the BIC (Bromeliad Identification Center). I don't know how much more definitive you can get than that. I agree with Andrew that c-a will not accept its own pollen, but if you have two or more different clones of it you can cross them. The jury is still out on whether c-a is a johannis hybid or not. Harry Luther first said yes, it is a natural hybrid with marmorata, but now says no, it's actually just another form of johannis. I'm still clinging to the natural hybrid theory, as it makes more sense to me, but whichever is right, it is almost certainly closely allied to johannis. As for johannis being a self-pollinator: well, yes and no, but mostly no. What I mean by that is that if you don't do anything to it, it won't self. At least mine doesn't. I have once or twice attempted to get self seed from it by hand pollinating it with its own pollen, and I did get one or two berries, but most didn't set up. The resulting plants didn't show evidence of having got anybody else's genes in them, so I am assuming it is not self-infertile, but you really have to work at it. It's not going to do it without help, so I wouldn't worry about it. More problematic are the teeny tiny flowers that often don't want to open. Oddly enough, cv. DeRolf has much bigger flowers that open wider, I have no idea why. Hannibal Lecter is another in-betweener. Sometimes it will set seed without being intentionally pollinated, but very often it won't. You do have to be aware that it is self-compatible, and that if it hasn't been emasculated before the pollen is ripe there will likely be a few seedlings in your grex that have gotten their own pollen, but that won't keep it from accepting outside pollen too. If you cross it with something fairly different from itself, you should be able to tell pretty easily which ones are the selfs.

Terri, I would like to know the same, as Ventricosa is the usual species that is said to grow true from seed. I have some OP seedlings growing from Plantaginea, and they look identical to the parent so far, but were too young to bloom last summer. I really hope they will bloom this summer. I'll post about it if I get blooms. I did find that I could go out in the night and pollinate Plantaginea with their own pollen and it takes very well. But by morning when the bees are doing it, it's less fertile. I think the flower is so big that the usual bumblebees may miss the mark most of the time also. The pods will mature in about 40 days, maybe 30, so you should be able to get good seed from them pretty easily. I failed completely in trying to cross any other type of hosta pollen onto Plantaginea even at night, however I have many pods and a few fragrant seedlings from using Plantaginea pollen. Salute x Plantaginea has bloomed and is fragrant and blue; Cinnamon Sticks x P is fragrant and green with red pets, Spritzer x p not bloomed yet, Green Fountain x P, Shining Tot x P are first year seedlings. Some of my seedlings from crosses with P were not fragrant, but it may be possible that a bee got to it and introduced other pollen. Dave