If you're not sure about your pH, the first thing to do is test your soil, not amend it. Strawberries aren't blueberries, they don't need a really acid soil. You could be way over-amending with no way to know this.

Having weeds indicates you have soil of indeterminate quality that can support at least some plant life. Big surprise people look at you like your smoking something. Now if you used the term plants, you may not get such a total lack of enthusiasm for your cherished idea. Digitalis is used as an indicator of certain minerals in prospecting. Certainly an example of a plant being used as an indicator of soil conditions, but it's hard to imagine Digitalis being considered by most a weed. In the heavy clay soil of the Red River Valley, shrubs that are supposed to have fabulous fall color rarely do, and even when they do, it's not as brilliant as if it were planted in a less fertile, more porous soil. Indeed, get outside the ridgeline that defines the ancient riverbed, and fall color changes notable. If the concept of plants as indicative of soil conditions was fallacious, the term and concept of pioneer species would not exist. Yet I have to ask, to what value? Considering that knowledge of certain soil types precludes certain types of crops (sandy soil and sugar beet, clay and carrots or potatoes), and that in our micromanaged world nothing is done without the verification of a soil test, what value does it possess? It's kinda like knowing Morse code...cool, and good at parties, but other than stroking your own ego, who really cares? Perhaps when global warming progresses to such a degree that Siberia becomes the new farming center of the world, and new pioneers trek out to wrest an existence from the land, this will be of more value. It would be nice to know when space exploration comes of age...to find a new planet, hospitable to life, and to tell what the agricultural potential is by a glance at the flora...but that is a rather Earth-centric view of things, isnt it?

Any decent garden soil will have a lot of fungi growing through it. The fungal threads help bind together clay particles, release nutrients and do many other things that are good for the soil. When there is a great deal of food in the way of partially decomposed organic matter (i.e. compost that was not 100% broken down) then the fungi can grow strong enough to reproduce and put up fruiting bodies, aka muushrooms.

Crystal, It's a huge job to dig and improve heavy clay soil deeper than 12" and something I've never considered necessary except for some trees. Of course if you have plants with really deep roots it may be worth it altho most perennials do fine in that depth. The alfalfa tea will help to feed the plants so they have a better chance of surviving while you are improving the soil with compost and mulch and by burying organics between the plants. I think it also makes the soil more habitable for the earthworms. Every perennial I dig up has many worms in the roots. While I don't know a lot about the life of earthworms I think they probably eat any roots that decay and perhaps also eat healthy roots. I expect the alfalfa tea helps to develop a healthy root system. Anyhow I know the worms don't hurt my plants and their castings are one of the best fertilizers so I like to encourage and feed them and the alfalfa tea feeds both plants and worms. I know some people don't agree that alfalfa tea is very useful but I really like it and don't use a lot of other fertilizers. My plants seem to be healthy and I have few garden problems so something must be working! Alfalfa pellets can be purchased at your local farm and feed store and are quite inexpensive. There are a lot of recipes for alfalfa tea which you'll find if you google. I don't follow those recipes as many recommend epsom salts which I'm not sure is necessary in my soil. If you know your soil is deficient in magnesium it would be helpful altho many recipes seem to use what I consider too much. Also I use the tea very diluted and more often than most recipes recommend. To make the tea I put a few cups of alfalfa pellets in a 5 gallon bucket and fill bucket half full. Stir, or blast more water into the bucket with the hose every day. This aerates the tea. I just bail out about 1/2 quart and add it to water in my watering can. I keep adding water to the bucket until what's left looks very diluted then I use it full strength. The residue left in the bottom of the pail can be composted but I usually put it around the plants. Some people think the tea has to stink to be good but I prefer to aerate it sufficiently so it doesn't. Mine smells like alfalfa hay that's slightly fermented and not at all unpleasant. For some plants that are growing vigorously I water with diluted tea almost every time I water.