Hi buyorsell888, yup, that's how we did it. We did this working together. My husband was on the outside of the greenhouse. He pushed the screw (washer in place) through the poly panel, and stopped. I put the two back-to-back washers in place on the tip of the screw (I threaded them on just a bit) and then I held them in place while he pushed the screw on into the brace. Washoe_Mark said he did it by himself, by using a bit of silicone adhesive to glue the two washers to the brace on the inside of the greenhouse first. Then he was able to drill the screw from the outside, without anybody holding the washers in place inside of the greenhouse. You could even use a nut as the spacer, instead of using two back-to-back washers. You don't HAVE to have a spacer between the panel and the brace at all...it works fine without it. We just thought it looked a bit nicer to have a spacer there, since it allows the panels to remain flat instead of being pulled in by the screw. If DH would rather keep things simple, I'd just have him use a washer on the outside. Sheri

energy_rater_la: WOW thanks so much for the information! I'll definitely try everything you outlined. It's funny, both companies that bid the insulation job had an optional air sealing line. Both companies said it wasn't worth it and they weren't sure if it would solve the negative pressure. It wasn't cheap and neither company would touch the HVAC ducts. It's funny, it was like they offered the service but they totally didn't expect me to select it. That's why I decided to tackle air sealing on my own. I figured once I get the negative pressure under control I could have them back out to add the insulation. That filter look really good. Where do you purchase a filter like that? My local Home Depot and Lowes doesn't carry those kind of filters. The fireplace is on the first floor and sits in it's own cantilever. Which is why I think it's so leaky. That cantilever overhangs the foundation and the wind just whips up underneath and into the fireplace doghouse. My basement is unfinished so I can see into the cantilever, it's insulated with a few batts of FG. The insulation company is going to remove the batts and spray foam the underneath of the bump out when they're out to do the attic. When I caulked up the bath fans two weekends ago I checked that all three bath fans had backdraft dampers and that they worked. They aren't the greatest, just little plastic flaps but they opened and closed correctly with the operation of the bath fan. The extra batts in the attic are there just to beef up that area of the attic. It's the only way from the mechanical platform into the rest of the attic. I had been in the attic so many times in the past that I mashed down the blown in insulation in that area. So a few years back I purchased a bag of batts and threw them down in that area. See it's that experience that keeps me from letting the insulation company blow in additional insulation when I feel like I still need to work up there. Blown in insulation gets compacted SO easily! Thanks again for the information. I'll drop you a line with my email. Also here is the youtube link for everyone here: http://youtu.be/cxYXxVlQ4Dc

I talked to the inspector yesterday and he said that he really could not evaluate the "efficiency" of the HVAC--like if it was balanced correctly between the 3 units--if there was too much humidity. ..he would check the coils and the heat exchanger and system in general for problems ...he could run the system and see if any rooms were staying too warm for run time which might indicate a problem w/air balance or lack of insulation or leaking tubes. Our realtor says that problems like that the seller would not be required to remediate prior to closing--that he would very probably not even have to offer to reduce price by cost of doing the work....kind of like you bought an older home w/original toilets--they are not the taller ones or as water-efficient so just deal with that issue on your own after you move in...they work so they pass inspection... I know that the city code for insulation has probably changed since house was built and some builders have started to include things like radiant barriers under shingles and foam board exterior sheathing for extra insulation--but there are still new homes being built w/o even that radiant barrier because it is not code required... We live in older home and have had two water heaters replaced at different times...when the second one had to be done, we had to spend extra money to have it vented properly and have different type of drain pan and overflow drain done because it is in closet in garage and I did not want it exposed--park car right in front of it and wanted some protection)...the plumber also checked the other unit and made sure it was up to code...he also did something w/the gas heating unit in the attic to make sure it was to code because that had changed since it was replaced about 6 years ago... About the appliances, inspector can only check to make sure they work--not their "energy efficiency"...the cook top has a tacky metal vent that is vented into overhead cabinet space and hopefully thorugh the attic to roof--that is something he should check out as well as the fans in the bathrooms... don't know what the code was when house was built...could just vent into attic space which is not good... The second floor is on separate zone--there are three units--one for master side that includes the study probably and maybe the formal living/dining. There is unit for the back side of house w/den/kitchen/2nd bed and pool bath...then a unit for upstairs... at least that is what we think...will try to get the inspector to run each unit separately and see where air goes and where the returns are... He said he could also check to make sure the foundation was a piered beam one as the MLS said--instead of just a slab which is more common in houses in this price range...piered beam is usually much better long term so that is important feature of construction to us...

Thank you for referencing the post regarding the quality of old wood windows. Your issue with the sash weight cords can be easily remedied by carefully removing the interior wood casing, or removing the small "doors" held in place by one screw in the side jambs (often this feature was not available). Either of these options would allow access to the weights within the wall cavity. The weights are attached to the cord/rope by a simple knot, and the sash contains a mortise on the sides. The opposite end of the rope also contains a knot and a small nail to secure the knot/rope to the sash within the wood mortise. A new cord/rope can be purchased from your local hardware store and cut to the appropriate lengths required for proper travel. Be sure to oil the wheel assembly mounted to the top area of the jamb, or remove the wheel assembly before the cord is replaced and clean all paint residue before applying oil. Another simple maintenance item would include taking a bar of paraffin wax and rubbing it up and down within the jamb pocket where the sash slides up and down. This will allow the sashes to travel up and down with much less effort and may help remedy your "stuck" issue once the sashes have been "un-stuck". The "sticky" sashes may simply be due to the paint bonding to itself within the jamb pocket. The wax will solve this problem too. Many old structures have moved or settled over the years and that often caused window frames to become out-of-square. This situation does not allow the square sashes to "seat" properly within the frame, thus allowing air travel around the sashes. If this is minor, I have removed sashes and sawn a small kerf in the bottom of the lower sash and top of the upper sash and installed a compressible bulb type of weather-strip material used with modern wood windows. This provides compression when the sashes are closed and fills the void left by small differences in sash alignment to the frames. On a larger scale, wooden storm windows can be manufactured to fit the exterior side of the original double hung window (interior side if casements are used). The advantages of this "modification" are numerous compared to complete window replacement. Less mess and waste, shorter on site work time, less expense due to limited on-site labor, etc. Essentially, the most difficult aspect is making cardboard templates of the existing windows since the frames may no longer be square in the openings, and determining the pitch of the existing wooden window sill. We have often removed trim and re-set the existing windows square in the openings when there has been substantial movement/settling over the years. The storm windows would be manufactured off-site and may contain modern low-e insulating glass, if preferred. The frames would be made of a solid wood that is resistent to rot or decay. This could be cedar, cypres, mahogany, teak, etc.; take a look at what wooden boat manufacturers use in their construction for an idea on what wood to use. The edge of the new storm window frame should contain a rabbet on three sides that allows the frame to wrap the existing exterior window sash stop. This area will also receive a sawn kerf to accept a bulb weather-strip. The bottom of the storm panel is beveled to match the existing pitch of the wood window sill, and also receives a kerf and weather-strip. Once installed, the storm panel protects the existing window during cold months, provides energy efficient glazing compatible with modern windows, and provides air infiltration sealant through the use of multiple weather-stripping. This will likely alleviate your concerns about moisture and mildew on the exterior side of the original wood sashes. If condensation occurs, it will likely be on the new storm panel which is a marine-grade wood species. The aesthetic value in retaining original windows and wavy glass is sometimes tremendous. The cost saving value may be found in less on-site labor, but also in potential resale value due to the greater aesthetics in the original detailing. Among some additional advantages, this may be a good approach for many homeowners. In regards to the lead-based paint issue, I have never been too concerned about it, as it has been determined to be unhealthy when consumed and I've never thought of eating the flaked off pieces of old paint. Obviously, if very small children are present during paint removal, my opinion of lead-based paint would be different. I cannot imagine how much old paint I've scraped or sanded over my lifetime, but I've never given it much thought. Opinions may vary on this issue. On the same topic, I agree that lead-based paints did/do provide a more durable finish. Lead-based paints are still approved for commercial uses, such as for repainting steel bridges and such, as it is pretty important to protect such structures from rust. This may allow one to conclude that lead-based paints are more durable and may not be as highly toxic to normal human interaction. Lastly, regarding the difference in the two wood species, both pine and fir are considered "moderately" resistant to rot. Douglas fir may hold slight advantages due to some additional oils in the wood, but it is likely a longevity difference of today versus next week in terms of when they will each succumb to rot. If you're set on replacing the existing windows, an extruded aluminum clad-wood window can offer two benefits in that it is low maintenance on the exterior side and the heavy extrusion often offers additional structural integrity. Check window cut sections to view the amount of metal used, how it is applied to the wood, and how the aluminum is joined at the corners. I avoid clad wood windows that use screws, staples or glue to hold the metal to the wood. Due to expansion differences between unlike materials, these two should not be mechanically fastened to each other or it may be prone to separation at the corner joints. Physical attachments are a smaller concern, but still provide some bond between the unlike materials. Both instances may allow water penetration behind the cladding at some point in the life of the product, thus creating a hidden decay problem. We also don't use clad-wood windows that don't fully wrap the exterior frame with an extrusion, particularily at the sill. Any exposed wood in this area has proven to rot prematurely. I hope that you have found this information helpful.