Don't forget the 'Sun visor' or slant the roof. In any case make sure the plants don't get misted otherwise they'll get a grey film in time. Keeping the unevaporated water on the ground prevents that. The wood stays wet all the time and probably will fall apart somewhere between 5 and 10 years. I know of some one who built one out of plastic and fiberglass materials. Can't take a picture of it but this thing is blasting out a stream of cool air that is just as good or better than any swamp cooler. Das is alles, good luck building it. Nick

The controllers and valves I am familiar with are all 24v; where are you measuring the voltage at on the controller?

I find 15 matches beginning with KUDI02FR, although there really are only five variations (three color choices). There should be more letters/numbers on your model designation, a two-letter color code and an ending number. The ending number is important, an engineering change/version specific to your unit (0, 1, 2, 3, or 4). Fill is by time, programmed into the board. There's a float at front corner of the tub but it is only to mechanically sense overfilling, it does not determine the normal fill level. Your problem may not be low fill, particularly if you've already tried changing the valve. There's a mesh screen that's part of the food-chopper blade and a small rubber flapper valve in the pump. The screen can get clogged with debris such as paper labels, fibrous food residue, bone fragments and such, starving the pump for proper water flow even if the fill level is OK. Here's a link to a video showing how to clean the area on a similar Kenmore model. There are many DIY help videos online at YouTube and elsewhere, do some searching to find more. Kenmore/Whirlpool/KitchenAid Pump Cleaning

Yes I have. Not a Pro but the Pro's replaced Four Bad Units in another building (at 800 a Pop+ Installation) that I took the " Bad One's" and cleaned the pilot tube out with a Q-Tip and they work just fine now. I don't use terms like "You All" because there are many reputable guys out there. Transformer looks like a 24VAC transformer reversed (where 24V is the primary) and is feeding the module 120 volts but not the true 120 volts that they were made for. I would like to convert them to the same 24 V DSI's. If that means changing them to 24V valves then that is what I will have done. That's one less thing to go bad. Six bad 120v modules tells me something is wrong with that set up. I can't see any reason to spend $3000 + Installation when 6 modules will run around $800 + Installation. Can anyone? I know on my furnace after the igniter lights the flame and the flame sensor shuts it off neither glow or continue to glow red hot. This leads me to believe that the spark and sensor assembly may be to close to the flame. When servicing anything I believe in looking for the underlying reason of problem to begin with and not just getting it to work. Thanks for your concern for safety