First, before using any pesticide get a proper diagnosis because the pesticide may have unintended consequences, like taking aspirin for the pain caused by a bleeding ulcer. Many people think that because water runs out the bottom of a potted plant that the soil is totally wet. Nothing is further that the truth. Most, if not all, are made of dried shredded plant material which does not absorb water readily. Thing of a dry sponge, it does not absorb water when first place on it so you "force" the water in. So how do you accomplish this feat with soil in a pot, simple. Take the pot, set in the sink, stopper the sink, fill with water to 7/8 the height of pot, let soak until the surface is moist (2-4 hours), drain the water and allow the pot to drain. Now you know the soil ball is holding all the water it can.

I do not believe that the blackened root tips are caused by Tobacco Smoke. Santa Barbara might be orchid heaven but Phalaenopsis need warmth but not strong sunlight, so a bright window after you repot it as Jane suggest would be good. You might have gone from one extreme to the other with the wetness. I think the black tips were caused by the packed spag. Anyway try and find that nice warm spot as described in most notes and see how you go. Plant is in not too bad a condition. Santa Barbara is Cymbidium Orchid Heaven. Temps for Phalaenopsis not below 60F, not above 90F.

I agree about peat and soil that doesn't rewet causing problems. I also grow echeveria very happily in little glazed pots but I use a fine soil that retains more water and I don't let it get completely dry or water just runs down the side of the soil and straight out of the drain holes. I like your pots, they are very cute and will probably be ok with a change of soil. I like growing echeveria in old ceramic teapots or even sugar bowls that I buy from thrift shops, especially the ones with missing lids, which sell for next to nothing and you don't want the lids anyway. I drill a single hole in them. You don't need a diamond drill, an ordinary masonry drill bit will do the job.

Great link tropic! It's great when people include photos in the explanation. They made a good point about using cuttings that had flowers/berries on them. I thought that might be a good thing indicating the age of the wood. But it makes more sense the cutting would lack nutrients since it's already been used for the flowers/berries. That's probably what is happening to my stem cutting. My last surviving stem cutting was scored on the bottom half inch all around the stem and still didn't grow roots even though it's pushing out new growth. The tip of the scored end started turning hard and dry too so I peeled another half inch off before repotting it