I don't think I would mind the lambs ear if I could make some type of barrier to keep it small and tidy. I have a bunch of Lowes paint buckets I bought a couple years ago to make self-watering containers out of (failed experiment).....I have wondered if I cut the bottom of the bucket out, and then put the bucket over the lambs ear and pounded it down into the ground so many inches, if it would keep the plant contained. Maybe I should move the Salvia into a group of 3 plants like in a triangle shape in between and in front of the barberry shrubs? Is it too late to move the Salvia now if this would look good? I am not sure if this kind flowers/seeds or not...I just planted it last summer (came from a coworker's plant)...so far just seems to be a clump of soft leaves.

Lass, of course, I'm not recommending leaving roses in band pots for extended periods, but I must tell you about Etoile de Mai, a tiny band I bought from Ashdown last September. Due to one thing and another it stayed in the band on my patio, in the enclosed porch during the freezes and back on the patio getting water catch as catch can and getting smaller (it was minute when it arrived!) and smaller until it became one "cane" about 2" long. I thought sure I was killing this rose that I really wanted (and paid good money for). In early April when I dug my new Niles Cochet bed I planted it. Etoile de Mai is growing and has buds on it. What can I say? They're tough. But I did lose a mini this way but it didn't last anywhere near as long as EdM under similar abuse. Sherry

Annual bluegrass, "Poa annua" will do that and many sellers of grass seed include this "weed" in their mixes for some unknown reason. What is your soils pH? What is the level of organic matter in your soil? What is the nutrient level and is it balanced? What kind of life is in your soil? How well does your soil drain? Contact the local office of your University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done and then dig into yor soil with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. All of this will help you make your soil into that good, healthy soil that will grow a strong and healthy turf that will crowd out the "Poa annua"., but it will take some time and probably more then a year. Here is a link that might be useful: UG CES

Lovely!! I don't grow anything with thorns...can't seem to wear gloves and I got tired of bleeding! Butt I do love succulents, hee hee.